I finally went on vacation, I could not have been more excited - I had not done a real holiday in a year (which is very hard when traveling is your life line). We went to Marrakesh and stayed at Dar Rhizlame (http://www.dar-rhizlane.com/)
For the hotel itself, it was highly recommended on the New York Times travel section however the staff spoke very limited English. This was fine since I speak French but could be a problem for others. The hotel itself was very picturesque and did indeed give you a sense of staying in a real Moroccan guest house. Your breakfast was also included and we took ours on our balcony each morning. It was a lot of various carbs though. The staff was very friendly if a bit slow moving but that is to be expected outside of the US. I did have some qualms with it however. For starters you could hear everything on the street which meant you only got silence between about 11pm and 6am. Also my dad's room had a really weird smell about it that would not go away (and permeated all of his belongings).
We took a camel ride in Les Palmiers which allowed us to see where a lot of the luxury hotels are and I would advise against it. It was just like being in a giant 2,000 room American hotel with a Moroccan theme about it. Would also take longer to get into town. There are tons of guest houses of all levels of quality and price both inside and just outside the old medina and if you want some culture go for one of those instead.
That said despite doing all the things you are 'meant' to do neither my dad nor I were enamored at all. In fact since returning to DC when people ask me and I share my thoughts I am frequently told this is not the first time they've heard this. Apparently despite Marrakesh giving me the impression of being a glamorous exotic place to go, many people have felt the same thing!
That being said the food was absolutely amazing and you must eat at both Le Tobsil and Al Fassia are places where one MUST eat (Al Fassia is well known for their Pigeon Bastilla).
The New York Times does a great article on all the things one should do in Marrakesh (and we did all of them, the Gardens, the school, the bains). If you decide you still must go here instead of somewhere else check this: http://travel.nytimes.com/2007/11/11/travel/11hours.html
I have been to many places and there are very very few I would not go back to. While the sights were pretty, the people mostly nice (they do fleece you more than anywhere I have ever been and can be a bit pushy) and the food was tasty I really could care less to go back.
Wednesday, November 30, 2011
Friday, October 21, 2011
48 hours in Paris
Paris, j'taime. You cannot go to Paris and not feel simply fabulous from the moment you arrive. It just is not possible. While the Parisians themselves may have an unflattering reputation (as an American girl I usually do not notice this), you will immediately get swept away in the romance and glamor of it all. From the architecture to the food to the style, you simply cannot go wrong.
Where to stay: Chanel, Hepburn, Hemingway- they all made the Ritz THE place to stay in Paris. Fantastic central location, grand over the top decorations, I dream of staying here one day. Of course only a very lucky few stay here...
Each time I have gone to Paris all the places I have stayed have been lovely but not remarkable in my mind (minus the time we stayed at Euro Disney). Once we found one off the Champs Elysees on lastminute.com another time we stayed near the Opera House in a strangely modern but cute little hotel. A friend stayed at and enjoyed the Meridien Montparnasse (huge hotel). I think the best thing to do is to research the different neighborhoods and decide which suits your character best. I think the most important thing to remember is that this is a major European city so your money will not go as far as you want it to, the rooms will probably be a little smaller, and your bathroom might be antiquated (unless you stay in a Hilton or other American run chain). Also if you are not staying at a high end resort, be prepared to have a shower in the hall. It is fairly standard in Europe.
Day One: Begin your day with a pastry, no the French do not really do this but frankly they are good and the French are missing out! Begin your day at the Louvre (the earlier the better) and unless you are an art fanatic hit the majors and resign the rest (you probably could not see all of it in 48 hours anyway!) Follow this with a lovely stroll through the gardens until you reach the Musee de l'Orangerie. This is an absolute must as it hosts the famous Monet waterlily paintings that stretch around the room.
Follow this with one of the best crepes you will ever have at La Creperie St Germain (http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurant_Review-g187147-d1900028-Reviews-La_Creperie_Saint_Germain-Paris_Ile_de_France.html) While the decor reminds me more of Gaudi than Paris but the food and atmosphere is fantastic. This will position you well to spend some time after lunch shopping in the St Germain area before wandering over to the Jardin du Luxembourg to relax and people watch. After freshening up in your hotel, drinks at the Bar Hemingway at the Ritz are insanely expensive (30 Euro a pop) but an absolute must. The bar has very limited seating so try to arrive within 15 minutes of opening. Also if it is any consolation, my boyfriend and I checked all the other Ritz menus and the drinks are just as overpriced at all the other bars so you might as well enjoy a bit of history at the same time! For dinner my best recommendation is to walk as far from a metro as you can and find a hole in the wall. It is pretty much all we ever do and it usually works for the best this way. We also actively try to find a place that does not have english menus because then we know we really have arrived! (Bring a dictionary).
Day Two: Begin with more Eclairs (you are on vacation after all). Spend the morning heading over to the Basilique du Sacre-Coeur. Feel free to climb the steps in order to burn off breakfast and avoid the men trying to sell you friendship bracelets! The biggest reason to do this is that it is on a hill giving great views of the city and free (unlike climbing the Eiffel Tower). After that make your way over to the grounds beneath the Tower and stop at a grocery store for a stereotypical French meal of wine, cheese, & bread. Enjoy this under the shadow of the tower before heading over to the Les Invalides to see where Napoleon was buried. Finally, no trip to Paris would be complete without at least window shopping the big names. Head over to the Arch de Triumph and wander down the Champs Elysees for some fabulous shopping!
Sunday, October 16, 2011
All inclusive resorts
This recent article from the Washington Post totally speaks to me: http://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/travel/how-i-learned-to-stop-worrying-and-love-the-all-inclusive-resort/2011/10/04/gIQAx6i5jL_story.html
I have been to two all inclusive resorts in my travels and have had very different experiences. My dad and I accidentally ended up at one on the Greek Island of Rhodes and wanted to leave within moments of arriving. You were required to wear a bracelet, I watched grown fat men bring plates literally stacked with six dinner rolls for themselves back from the buffet and the next morning at 7am EVERY chair by the pool was already claimed, despite everyone already being a shade of lobster red. The resort also provided no way to get to the culture at the other end of the island (Old Town) so my dad and I got on a public bus. Then in Zanzibar we stayed at one on the coast because, well outside of Stone Town you cannot really just wander to any restaurant you want. This was slightly not inclusive in that beer and lunch were still charged (at least on our package) but it was so so much better. The breakfast buffet was full of fresh fruit and each night was a different theme at the restaurant. They altered between buffet themed nights (like local fair) and sit down menus (one was themed like a gala with a band and dance floor). This meant not facing the same drab buffet nightly which made it o so so much better. Plus being in the middle of no where it was more practical.
I have been to two all inclusive resorts in my travels and have had very different experiences. My dad and I accidentally ended up at one on the Greek Island of Rhodes and wanted to leave within moments of arriving. You were required to wear a bracelet, I watched grown fat men bring plates literally stacked with six dinner rolls for themselves back from the buffet and the next morning at 7am EVERY chair by the pool was already claimed, despite everyone already being a shade of lobster red. The resort also provided no way to get to the culture at the other end of the island (Old Town) so my dad and I got on a public bus. Then in Zanzibar we stayed at one on the coast because, well outside of Stone Town you cannot really just wander to any restaurant you want. This was slightly not inclusive in that beer and lunch were still charged (at least on our package) but it was so so much better. The breakfast buffet was full of fresh fruit and each night was a different theme at the restaurant. They altered between buffet themed nights (like local fair) and sit down menus (one was themed like a gala with a band and dance floor). This meant not facing the same drab buffet nightly which made it o so so much better. Plus being in the middle of no where it was more practical.
Thursday, September 8, 2011
A day in Oxford
Hi everyone,
Sorry that I am failing at posting recently. Having an internship and looking for a real job takes up entirely too much of my time. Please excuse the informality of this post, a friend had asked me to tell her what to do for a day trip in Oxford so I am going to re-paste the email below. Maybe in the near future I will have time to clean it up!
1) The ORIGINAL Ben's Cookies is in Oxford in the Oxford Covered Market (it is a bit hidden off the high street so might be best to ask someone, one entrance is near boots). The high street it is off of is Cornmarket http://maps.google.com/maps?oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&q=the+covered+market,+oxford&fb=1&gl=us&hq=the+covered+market,&hnear=0x48713380adc41faf:0xc820dba8cb547402,Oxford,+UK&cid=0,0,6404221355595297140&ei=FcpoToDQJura0QGRlM2EDA&sa=X&oi=local_result&ct=image&ved=0CAQQ_BI. The covered market is also cool in general and has a really popular shake shack as well.
2) The Garden Pub. If you do not have lunch here you are really missing out. This is a strictly vegetarian pub but it is so freaking good that my boyfriend an avid meat lover would make us go on the weekends specifically from Reading for lunch some weekends (he was lamenting about not having it the other day). It is in Jericho which is a really trendy neighborhood but a little out of the way so either write down directions or take a cab. http://www.thegarden-oxford.co.uk/
It is also a quintessential academic/ country pub.
3) The Oxford University Press, can't go in but it is big and impressive (also in Jericho).
4) Christ Church, this is 'the' elite college of Oxford you pretty much have to be someone to get in. It is also where a lot of Harry Potter was filmed. You do have to pay to go in (which I have never done since I could care less about wizards) however the grounds themselves are also amazing and you can walk down to the river and see some of the crew clubs as well.
5) The Eagle and Child is a famous pub where previous famous oxford students used to go. (Tolkien, C.S. Lewis).
6) The best yet most impossible pub to find (once again ask because I can barely find it just wandering and cannot possibly hope to give directions- just know you have to walk down a really really narrow alley near the bridge of sighs for one of the two entrances - both of which are down narrow alleys) is Turf Tavern. This is another famously frequented pub and is allegedly where Bill Clinton 'did not' inhale. http://www.theturftavern.co.uk/
Other than that Oxford is a city with a university unlike Cambridge which is a university with a town so you can fill your day fairly easily. All the 'big' tourist attractions however are doable in a day. I personally recommend arriving in time for lunch, going to Garden Pub walking through Jericho to get back to the center, ambling around, having Ben's Cookies as a snack and ending the day at Turf Tavern.
Sorry that I am failing at posting recently. Having an internship and looking for a real job takes up entirely too much of my time. Please excuse the informality of this post, a friend had asked me to tell her what to do for a day trip in Oxford so I am going to re-paste the email below. Maybe in the near future I will have time to clean it up!
1) The ORIGINAL Ben's Cookies is in Oxford in the Oxford Covered Market (it is a bit hidden off the high street so might be best to ask someone, one entrance is near boots). The high street it is off of is Cornmarket http://maps.google.com/maps?oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&q=the+covered+market,+oxford&fb=1&gl=us&hq=the+covered+market,&hnear=0x48713380adc41faf:0xc820dba8cb547402,Oxford,+UK&cid=0,0,6404221355595297140&ei=FcpoToDQJura0QGRlM2EDA&sa=X&oi=local_result&ct=image&ved=0CAQQ_BI. The covered market is also cool in general and has a really popular shake shack as well.
2) The Garden Pub. If you do not have lunch here you are really missing out. This is a strictly vegetarian pub but it is so freaking good that my boyfriend an avid meat lover would make us go on the weekends specifically from Reading for lunch some weekends (he was lamenting about not having it the other day). It is in Jericho which is a really trendy neighborhood but a little out of the way so either write down directions or take a cab. http://www.thegarden-oxford.co.uk/
It is also a quintessential academic/ country pub.
3) The Oxford University Press, can't go in but it is big and impressive (also in Jericho).
4) Christ Church, this is 'the' elite college of Oxford you pretty much have to be someone to get in. It is also where a lot of Harry Potter was filmed. You do have to pay to go in (which I have never done since I could care less about wizards) however the grounds themselves are also amazing and you can walk down to the river and see some of the crew clubs as well.
5) The Eagle and Child is a famous pub where previous famous oxford students used to go. (Tolkien, C.S. Lewis).
6) The best yet most impossible pub to find (once again ask because I can barely find it just wandering and cannot possibly hope to give directions- just know you have to walk down a really really narrow alley near the bridge of sighs for one of the two entrances - both of which are down narrow alleys) is Turf Tavern. This is another famously frequented pub and is allegedly where Bill Clinton 'did not' inhale. http://www.theturftavern.co.uk/
Other than that Oxford is a city with a university unlike Cambridge which is a university with a town so you can fill your day fairly easily. All the 'big' tourist attractions however are doable in a day. I personally recommend arriving in time for lunch, going to Garden Pub walking through Jericho to get back to the center, ambling around, having Ben's Cookies as a snack and ending the day at Turf Tavern.
Saturday, June 11, 2011
New York, New York
New York! Who does not love 'the City'? Well for a start I used to hate it. I hated that I never saw the sky, hated how slow and fat all the tourist were who were in my way of walking at a nice brisk pace. Hated the noise, hated it all. Then I moved there. Living in Brooklyn helped me see the sky and the rest of it... well it grew on me.
As I did with London I am not going to bother listing all the very famous things you can do in New York since unless you live under a rock you are fairly familiar. I will say this though, if you decide you want to go to Ellis Island or the Statue of Liberty book well in advance and try and get on the first boat of the day. The security lines are absolutely ridiculous.
I do not claim to be anything close to a New Yorker (too much Southern in me) but here are all the helpful tidbits and suggestions I can think of from living in there!
Culture:
In New York some museums are 'free' while others are not. Both the MET and the Natural History museum are technically free- they just suggest a donation of $20. I do not have that much money so I usually just give $5. As for other major ones both the MoMa and Guggenheim have free evenings (otherwise you MUST pay $20) for the Moma it is Friday after 4pm while the Guggenheim is on Saturday after 5pm. Obviously they are more crowded then but if you would rather spend the money at Barneys it is a good way to avoid paying for it.
As for gardens, obviously everyone knows about Central Park (well hopefully). The best way to see it (in my opinion) is taking a nice jog around it. Another great park is the East River Park in Williamsburg (Bedford Ave on the L) which will permit for fantastic photos of the New York skyline....
Finally a great little piece of nature is the High Line over in Chelsea/ Meat Packing district. It used to be a rail track that was used to shuttle the meat about from the docks to warehouses and the like but now is a nice stretch of park.
Neighborhoods:
While most tourists spend a lot of time wandering around the Upper East side (most museums are off of 5th Ave) and mid town (Empire State building, Times Square, Grand Central) these are not the most enticing neighborhoods.
Obviously everyone pretty much knows about Chelsea/ Meatpacking district as the IT neighborhoods but they really are worth exploring. The Chelsea market for example is a fabulous place to get baked goods, food, or knick knacks.
Union Square/ East Village is a great area with character too, the Union Square market (which is biggest on weekends) has loads of great unique things (and token NY photos for sale as well).
Brooklyn Heights has cute little stores and amazing brownstones. It would be a great place to go grab a coffee and waste an afternoon.
Williamsburg (Bedford Ave and Berry in particular). This is where I lived so I am partial but I love love love Bedford Ave. In my humble opinion brunch should only be done here.
Drinking:
Drinking in New York can be expensive and pretentious. Tragically I failed to find any good wine bars while living there but if you like good beer I have the list for you!
In Manhattan: The Gingerman in mid-town is phenomenal. You drink it, they most likely have it. German, Belgium, micro brew. You can even get beer to go! http://www.gingerman-ny.com/
Blind Tiger, near NYU this has loads of good local choices, sadly it is pretty small so it can be tricky getting a table.
Brass Monkey: If you find yourself in the meatpacking district and do not wish to have a $20 cocktail then this is the place for you. Good European selection, loads of space (also great on a week night since not a lot of offices near by). Load music on the weekends with a large amount of debauchery.
Outside of Manhattan:
I did not really venture outside of Manhattan other than Bedford Ave because frankly I did not need to. The list is endless as to the great places that you can drink there. First there is Berry Park which is done in German Beer Hall style (with the beer to match) and a roof garden. http://www.berryparkbk.com/
Then there is a DBA with a bigger selection than I could ever know what to do with. Off Berry there is a giant oktoberfest hall (apparently full of those from the island since all hipsters feel the need to go to the one in Queens): http://www.radegasthall.com/. Lovin Cup and Teddy's are also a great time on the weekend.
Food:
Please avoid the standard hotdog stands on the street. There are great food carts about but if you are out front a tourist attraction it is not a real food cart. Just saying.
As for pizza I have been to both John's Pizza (on Bleeker)http://www.johnsbrickovenpizza.com/ and Lombardi's (Soho)http://www.firstpizza.com/ - frankly I was not terribly impressed with either. Getting a slice from any mom & pop will most likely cover you on the cheap with less lines and less money spent.
Posh digs:
Since I am poor I cannot comment on too many of these. One great place is the 21 Club but I am fairly sure you have to be a member to eat there (worth checking though). Rosa Mexicano is expensive but amaaaazing Mexican. Their pomegranate margaritas are to die for and they make the guacamole fresh in front of you! They are perfect for a pre-ballet meal as one of their locations is right off Columbus Circle. http://rosamexicano.com/
Finally I cannot recommend Spice Market enough, I have been to a lot of places in the Meat Packing area and they are the least pretentious. They will give you great service regardless of who you are and if you are careful you can dine for a reasonable amount. Also the food is amazing. Get the green tea sunday or mango sorbet for dessert.
Also while you are in the meatpacking district be sure to go to The Lobster Place in Chelsea market and get a lobster roll. You will thank me later.
Williamsburg:
Since I lived there and all...
Perhaps my absolute fav would be An Nhau a fabulous Vietnamese place on Bedford Ave. The girl I lived with used to live in Vietnam and said it was all totally authentic. The restaurant also owns a Vietnamese sandwich shop next door (cash only) which frankly is the best sandwich you will ever have.
Juilette's is a great little place off Bedford that does french food really well and is another dinner option I cannot recommend enough (you can even roof dine). Meanwhile Berry Park has great food along with good beer.
Brunch:
Brunch might be my fav thing ever. Brunch in Williamsburg is even better. So raking them in order of my most favorite to still a favorite ....
1) Rabbit Hole (a bit of a walk from the subway stop but o my gosh their scones and pankcakes and french toast!)
2) Teddy's. Pancakes are also fantastic. They also do not skimp on their Mimosas unlike some brunch places. One is all it takes for me to feel it.
3) 5 Leaves (once again a bit of a walk, past the park) and there is always a line. Their brunch strays a bit from your typical brunch menu though and makes it worth it. Apparently some actor from Gossip Girl was even spotted here so you know it is good.
4) Cafe Collete - cute diner style inside, not a huge menu but still super tasty.
5) Julliette's probably only ranked this low because the day that I went I really wanted French Toast and could not get it for some reason I cannot remember.
Also in Bedford Ave is the o so famous 'Egg'- I have been, I was not impressed. Mostly bland egg dishes in my humble opinion.
Now that I have spilled all of my knowledge into this slightly disorganized blog I will say this, New York is really about exploring, my favorite thing to do is just wander until I see something good (like Pomme Frites in the East Village, o my gosh yum!)
The other great thing is that you can pretty much spend as much or little money as you want to so enjoy the town!
As I did with London I am not going to bother listing all the very famous things you can do in New York since unless you live under a rock you are fairly familiar. I will say this though, if you decide you want to go to Ellis Island or the Statue of Liberty book well in advance and try and get on the first boat of the day. The security lines are absolutely ridiculous.
I do not claim to be anything close to a New Yorker (too much Southern in me) but here are all the helpful tidbits and suggestions I can think of from living in there!
Culture:
In New York some museums are 'free' while others are not. Both the MET and the Natural History museum are technically free- they just suggest a donation of $20. I do not have that much money so I usually just give $5. As for other major ones both the MoMa and Guggenheim have free evenings (otherwise you MUST pay $20) for the Moma it is Friday after 4pm while the Guggenheim is on Saturday after 5pm. Obviously they are more crowded then but if you would rather spend the money at Barneys it is a good way to avoid paying for it.
As for gardens, obviously everyone knows about Central Park (well hopefully). The best way to see it (in my opinion) is taking a nice jog around it. Another great park is the East River Park in Williamsburg (Bedford Ave on the L) which will permit for fantastic photos of the New York skyline....
Finally a great little piece of nature is the High Line over in Chelsea/ Meat Packing district. It used to be a rail track that was used to shuttle the meat about from the docks to warehouses and the like but now is a nice stretch of park.
Neighborhoods:
While most tourists spend a lot of time wandering around the Upper East side (most museums are off of 5th Ave) and mid town (Empire State building, Times Square, Grand Central) these are not the most enticing neighborhoods.
Obviously everyone pretty much knows about Chelsea/ Meatpacking district as the IT neighborhoods but they really are worth exploring. The Chelsea market for example is a fabulous place to get baked goods, food, or knick knacks.
Union Square/ East Village is a great area with character too, the Union Square market (which is biggest on weekends) has loads of great unique things (and token NY photos for sale as well).
Brooklyn Heights has cute little stores and amazing brownstones. It would be a great place to go grab a coffee and waste an afternoon.
Williamsburg (Bedford Ave and Berry in particular). This is where I lived so I am partial but I love love love Bedford Ave. In my humble opinion brunch should only be done here.
Drinking:
Drinking in New York can be expensive and pretentious. Tragically I failed to find any good wine bars while living there but if you like good beer I have the list for you!
In Manhattan: The Gingerman in mid-town is phenomenal. You drink it, they most likely have it. German, Belgium, micro brew. You can even get beer to go! http://www.gingerman-ny.com/
Blind Tiger, near NYU this has loads of good local choices, sadly it is pretty small so it can be tricky getting a table.
Brass Monkey: If you find yourself in the meatpacking district and do not wish to have a $20 cocktail then this is the place for you. Good European selection, loads of space (also great on a week night since not a lot of offices near by). Load music on the weekends with a large amount of debauchery.
Outside of Manhattan:
I did not really venture outside of Manhattan other than Bedford Ave because frankly I did not need to. The list is endless as to the great places that you can drink there. First there is Berry Park which is done in German Beer Hall style (with the beer to match) and a roof garden. http://www.berryparkbk.com/
Then there is a DBA with a bigger selection than I could ever know what to do with. Off Berry there is a giant oktoberfest hall (apparently full of those from the island since all hipsters feel the need to go to the one in Queens): http://www.radegasthall.com/. Lovin Cup and Teddy's are also a great time on the weekend.
Food:
Please avoid the standard hotdog stands on the street. There are great food carts about but if you are out front a tourist attraction it is not a real food cart. Just saying.
As for pizza I have been to both John's Pizza (on Bleeker)http://www.johnsbrickovenpizza.com/ and Lombardi's (Soho)http://www.firstpizza.com/ - frankly I was not terribly impressed with either. Getting a slice from any mom & pop will most likely cover you on the cheap with less lines and less money spent.
Posh digs:
Since I am poor I cannot comment on too many of these. One great place is the 21 Club but I am fairly sure you have to be a member to eat there (worth checking though). Rosa Mexicano is expensive but amaaaazing Mexican. Their pomegranate margaritas are to die for and they make the guacamole fresh in front of you! They are perfect for a pre-ballet meal as one of their locations is right off Columbus Circle. http://rosamexicano.com/
Finally I cannot recommend Spice Market enough, I have been to a lot of places in the Meat Packing area and they are the least pretentious. They will give you great service regardless of who you are and if you are careful you can dine for a reasonable amount. Also the food is amazing. Get the green tea sunday or mango sorbet for dessert.
Also while you are in the meatpacking district be sure to go to The Lobster Place in Chelsea market and get a lobster roll. You will thank me later.
Williamsburg:
Since I lived there and all...
Perhaps my absolute fav would be An Nhau a fabulous Vietnamese place on Bedford Ave. The girl I lived with used to live in Vietnam and said it was all totally authentic. The restaurant also owns a Vietnamese sandwich shop next door (cash only) which frankly is the best sandwich you will ever have.
Juilette's is a great little place off Bedford that does french food really well and is another dinner option I cannot recommend enough (you can even roof dine). Meanwhile Berry Park has great food along with good beer.
Brunch:
Brunch might be my fav thing ever. Brunch in Williamsburg is even better. So raking them in order of my most favorite to still a favorite ....
1) Rabbit Hole (a bit of a walk from the subway stop but o my gosh their scones and pankcakes and french toast!)
2) Teddy's. Pancakes are also fantastic. They also do not skimp on their Mimosas unlike some brunch places. One is all it takes for me to feel it.
3) 5 Leaves (once again a bit of a walk, past the park) and there is always a line. Their brunch strays a bit from your typical brunch menu though and makes it worth it. Apparently some actor from Gossip Girl was even spotted here so you know it is good.
4) Cafe Collete - cute diner style inside, not a huge menu but still super tasty.
5) Julliette's probably only ranked this low because the day that I went I really wanted French Toast and could not get it for some reason I cannot remember.
Also in Bedford Ave is the o so famous 'Egg'- I have been, I was not impressed. Mostly bland egg dishes in my humble opinion.
Now that I have spilled all of my knowledge into this slightly disorganized blog I will say this, New York is really about exploring, my favorite thing to do is just wander until I see something good (like Pomme Frites in the East Village, o my gosh yum!)
The other great thing is that you can pretty much spend as much or little money as you want to so enjoy the town!
Saturday, May 21, 2011
Good travel tips!
I saw this on CNN, I have definitely already done several of the suggestions myself and think they are great while others I have not tried. Either way they are worth a read! (PS a lot of these are more for traveling in the developing world than developed world)
http://edition.cnn.com/2011/TRAVEL/05/20/80.tips.before.traveling.matador/index.html?hpt=C2
http://edition.cnn.com/2011/TRAVEL/05/20/80.tips.before.traveling.matador/index.html?hpt=C2
Friday, April 1, 2011
Having a successful African Safari
There are two ways to do a Safari (as far as I am aware) and I have done both. One way is camping out in the parks themselves, the other is staying at lodges inside or near by the camps.
Before deciding to be thrifty and camp out it would be worth while to find out if you are camping in a fenced in area (or if the guides fence in the area themselves). If not you might be like me and wake up to animals trying to get into your tent (more specifically a zebra smacking my head with his mouth). If the area is fenced in, you are less likely to be bothered or feel nervous getting up and walking to the bathroom in the middle of the night (most of us took the approach of peeing immediately outside the tent).
If you stay in a lodge however, you get a real bed, often an attached bathroom, and a little bit more shelter from the animals. I did this while in Zambia on the cheap and it was fantastic (Marula lodge). You still see animals from your room (hippo munching outside your window) and have elephants walking through the property etc.
Timing is the other key factor in deciding to do a safari. In places like the valley in Zambia, you want to go in the dry season when the animals cannot hide behind all of the various trees and plants in full bloom. Meanwhile the Serengeti is a vast open range so much easier to see animals in the rainy season. The best thing to do would be to consult a company about the best time to go since each area will have a different climate and have different times for best viewing.
Either way you will have a fantastic time!
Before deciding to be thrifty and camp out it would be worth while to find out if you are camping in a fenced in area (or if the guides fence in the area themselves). If not you might be like me and wake up to animals trying to get into your tent (more specifically a zebra smacking my head with his mouth). If the area is fenced in, you are less likely to be bothered or feel nervous getting up and walking to the bathroom in the middle of the night (most of us took the approach of peeing immediately outside the tent).
If you stay in a lodge however, you get a real bed, often an attached bathroom, and a little bit more shelter from the animals. I did this while in Zambia on the cheap and it was fantastic (Marula lodge). You still see animals from your room (hippo munching outside your window) and have elephants walking through the property etc.
Timing is the other key factor in deciding to do a safari. In places like the valley in Zambia, you want to go in the dry season when the animals cannot hide behind all of the various trees and plants in full bloom. Meanwhile the Serengeti is a vast open range so much easier to see animals in the rainy season. The best thing to do would be to consult a company about the best time to go since each area will have a different climate and have different times for best viewing.
Either way you will have a fantastic time!
Smart choices while traveling
I have never met a single person I didn't like while traveling through Africa (that is a lie, I hated one guy but he was British so it does not count). I have found that unlike those of us in the west who are very inward focused, people in Africa will give you help when you need it and genuinely look out for you (a guy tried to steal this kids phone in Moshi and the crowd beat the crap out of the thief).
All that being said, Africans are poor and are looking for ways to feed themselves and their families. It is unlikely that you are going to be straight up robbed in a harmful way but if you are not being smart people will take opportunities (just like they do everywhere else, had things stolen in New York and London but never Africa). The guy who nearly had his phone taken was walking down the street and texting not paying any attention what so ever to what he was doing, making himself an easy target. If you count a wad of cash in public and haphazardly stuff it in your wallet in your back pocket and meander into a crowd, you might find it missing. Put your bag full of valuable things to sell on the back of your chair and it might not be there when you turn around (don't do this anywhere this is how I lost everything at a pub in London). In short if you are aware of your surroundings in Africa just like in any big city, you will be fine.
Also don't be crass and show off your wealth. I did not take my very lovely Michale Kors watch with me because one it is white and it would not come back as such but two because I had a perfectly good $10 target watch I could take instead. Africans have a tendency to think because you are white you are as rich as Bill Gates so a lot of people might ask you for money (don't take offense). So if you make yourself super flashy you are going to be a bigger target (kind of true everywhere).
Something else I do is take a crap phone. I have a lovely little hot pink phone that is unlocked. When I get to the airport I just buy a local sim and pop money on it. So much easier than dealing with roaming and so much cheaper too.
Other handy things to pack include face wipes (not always able to wash your face in a sink), hand sanitizer (this saved me and Claire in ghana when we had no water with which to wash our hands), for those roughing it toilet paper is soooooo helpful. Also re-hydration and tummy meds for when the local food does not agree with you 100%.
When I was reading hotel ratings on trip adviser before going to Zanzibar I wanted to tell all the negative reviewers one thing:This is Africa. Your internet is going to be slower, you wont always be able to drink out of the sink, sometimes you might encounter a long drop without any toilet paper (or running water for hand washing). That does not make the experience any less amazing what so ever. As long as you go in with the attitude that it is Africa and that it will be different, you will complain less. That being said where we stayed in Zanzibar was pretty much five star every way it could be, amazing staff, AC, TV, drinkable tap water (at least for me), business lounge spa. I am just saying don't let the idea of a long drop keep you from going on one of the most amazing trips you could ever hope to take.
All that being said, Africans are poor and are looking for ways to feed themselves and their families. It is unlikely that you are going to be straight up robbed in a harmful way but if you are not being smart people will take opportunities (just like they do everywhere else, had things stolen in New York and London but never Africa). The guy who nearly had his phone taken was walking down the street and texting not paying any attention what so ever to what he was doing, making himself an easy target. If you count a wad of cash in public and haphazardly stuff it in your wallet in your back pocket and meander into a crowd, you might find it missing. Put your bag full of valuable things to sell on the back of your chair and it might not be there when you turn around (don't do this anywhere this is how I lost everything at a pub in London). In short if you are aware of your surroundings in Africa just like in any big city, you will be fine.
Also don't be crass and show off your wealth. I did not take my very lovely Michale Kors watch with me because one it is white and it would not come back as such but two because I had a perfectly good $10 target watch I could take instead. Africans have a tendency to think because you are white you are as rich as Bill Gates so a lot of people might ask you for money (don't take offense). So if you make yourself super flashy you are going to be a bigger target (kind of true everywhere).
Something else I do is take a crap phone. I have a lovely little hot pink phone that is unlocked. When I get to the airport I just buy a local sim and pop money on it. So much easier than dealing with roaming and so much cheaper too.
Other handy things to pack include face wipes (not always able to wash your face in a sink), hand sanitizer (this saved me and Claire in ghana when we had no water with which to wash our hands), for those roughing it toilet paper is soooooo helpful. Also re-hydration and tummy meds for when the local food does not agree with you 100%.
When I was reading hotel ratings on trip adviser before going to Zanzibar I wanted to tell all the negative reviewers one thing:This is Africa. Your internet is going to be slower, you wont always be able to drink out of the sink, sometimes you might encounter a long drop without any toilet paper (or running water for hand washing). That does not make the experience any less amazing what so ever. As long as you go in with the attitude that it is Africa and that it will be different, you will complain less. That being said where we stayed in Zanzibar was pretty much five star every way it could be, amazing staff, AC, TV, drinkable tap water (at least for me), business lounge spa. I am just saying don't let the idea of a long drop keep you from going on one of the most amazing trips you could ever hope to take.
Preparing for your African adventure.
One of the downsides to going to Africa is the preparation- while a trip to the UK usually just involves purchasing a ticket and hopping of the plane that is not the case for Africa. That being said if you are well organized it really is easy to go through the extra steps.
Getting there part one: The visa:
Countries have a fun way of getting back at each other for treatment of citizens and that is the visa process, since African visitors are forced to apply for travel visas to come to America the same is required of Americans going there. The price of the visa usually correlates so that both countries are charging the same amount (between $30 and $100). Luckily for US citizens however, you are much more likely to get a visa going there then any African is coming here (sorry Claire!). While some countries allow you to purchase a visa at the airport others require you to have it before leaving so it is worth checking with the country's embassy first. Also if you are like me and have an unforeseen night in Nairobi because you missed your connecting flight, there are often transit visas that are cheaper and easily granted if you are only in country for 24 or 48 hours. Even if you can get your visa upon arrival I HIGHLY recommend getting it in advance anyway. For one it is cheaper, two in Africa things move pole pole (slowly) so you can end up spending a lot longer in the immigration line then you would if you already had it (in Zambia they even let me through the diplomatic line they were so pleased that I already had mine). Also know that when applying for your visa they usually will want to know where you are going to stay as well as proof that you are leaving the country so you need to book your flight and have your hotel confirmation before the application.
Vaccinations: Thanks to all the super fantastic bugs that are in Africa (one time I found a neon-orange furry thing it was pretty cool). It is in some cases recommended and in others required that you have vaccinations. Yellow fever is the big one: countries such as Ghana, Kenya, Tanzania and others will not let you in the country if you do not have proof of your yellow fever vaccination (only the Kilimanjaro airport ever checked me). While I have not confirmed this, my friend swears a Kenyan airline flight from Dubai to South Africa (which does not require the yellow fever vaccination) told the Nairobi stop over group that they would need to have it. So if you are even stopping over in one that requires a vaccination I advise that you get it. The shot is a good investment anyway because they are good for ten years and after your first trip to Africa you are going to want to go back pretty much immediately.
The other absolute necessity would be malaria tablets, I personally have taken doxy both times (makes you have fun rashes in the sun and does a number on your tummy). I have not found it too difficult to take but in this case talk to your physician about what is right for you. If taking the malaria tablet gives you horrible reactions and ruins your holiday I have known people to skip taking them (NOT a doctor don't take my word for it). With a lot of bug spray and good use of your mosquito net you can combat most chances for a bite anyway. However the bugs are way worse in the rainy season so please be aware of the time you are going and the risks involved. George Clooney has had malaria a few times and he has not found it fun. Like I said, I know people who have gone without and been fine but it is not recommended.
Aside from these two necessities the rest is up to you and you ought to consider the kind of situation you will be in when determining what other shots to get. I got Hep B and Hep A because after two shots you are good for ten years and it is worth the investment. I also got the meningitis vaccine when I knew that Northern Ghana had had an outbreak and that I would be working with children. I have never had the rabbis shots because the hurt the most and I really dont plan on playing with any stray dogs. Another aside about the rabbis shot- without a shot you have 24 hours to find a doctor, with one of the five shots you have 48 hours to get the next one. There are five shots in total I believe.
Transportation
It never hurts to have your big transport requests arranged for before you leave (to and from airport & hotel). There are not fancy official cab stands at African airports the way there are at JFK so it is kind of just a mad house of people hoping to get you to be your customer. While your physical safety is unlikely to be threatened (well maybe Nairobi also known as Nai-robbery). Instead what they are likely to do is charge you about ten times the amount of the actual fare for your riding. Saying that though they tried to rip us off all the time in Ghana and charge us a whole 2 cidis for a twenty minute ride (think $2) instead of the actual 90 cents it costs. So while you will be ripped off if you dont know the cost of the fair, it is nothing like what NY cabbies can do to your wallet. Another way to prepare before you go is simply ask the hotel how much a cab ride should cost (you always agree on the fare before getting into the cab). Once you tell a cabbie you know how much the ride costs and wont go for anything other than X they will usually just laugh it off and take you for that amount.
Getting there part one: The visa:
Countries have a fun way of getting back at each other for treatment of citizens and that is the visa process, since African visitors are forced to apply for travel visas to come to America the same is required of Americans going there. The price of the visa usually correlates so that both countries are charging the same amount (between $30 and $100). Luckily for US citizens however, you are much more likely to get a visa going there then any African is coming here (sorry Claire!). While some countries allow you to purchase a visa at the airport others require you to have it before leaving so it is worth checking with the country's embassy first. Also if you are like me and have an unforeseen night in Nairobi because you missed your connecting flight, there are often transit visas that are cheaper and easily granted if you are only in country for 24 or 48 hours. Even if you can get your visa upon arrival I HIGHLY recommend getting it in advance anyway. For one it is cheaper, two in Africa things move pole pole (slowly) so you can end up spending a lot longer in the immigration line then you would if you already had it (in Zambia they even let me through the diplomatic line they were so pleased that I already had mine). Also know that when applying for your visa they usually will want to know where you are going to stay as well as proof that you are leaving the country so you need to book your flight and have your hotel confirmation before the application.
Vaccinations: Thanks to all the super fantastic bugs that are in Africa (one time I found a neon-orange furry thing it was pretty cool). It is in some cases recommended and in others required that you have vaccinations. Yellow fever is the big one: countries such as Ghana, Kenya, Tanzania and others will not let you in the country if you do not have proof of your yellow fever vaccination (only the Kilimanjaro airport ever checked me). While I have not confirmed this, my friend swears a Kenyan airline flight from Dubai to South Africa (which does not require the yellow fever vaccination) told the Nairobi stop over group that they would need to have it. So if you are even stopping over in one that requires a vaccination I advise that you get it. The shot is a good investment anyway because they are good for ten years and after your first trip to Africa you are going to want to go back pretty much immediately.
The other absolute necessity would be malaria tablets, I personally have taken doxy both times (makes you have fun rashes in the sun and does a number on your tummy). I have not found it too difficult to take but in this case talk to your physician about what is right for you. If taking the malaria tablet gives you horrible reactions and ruins your holiday I have known people to skip taking them (NOT a doctor don't take my word for it). With a lot of bug spray and good use of your mosquito net you can combat most chances for a bite anyway. However the bugs are way worse in the rainy season so please be aware of the time you are going and the risks involved. George Clooney has had malaria a few times and he has not found it fun. Like I said, I know people who have gone without and been fine but it is not recommended.
Aside from these two necessities the rest is up to you and you ought to consider the kind of situation you will be in when determining what other shots to get. I got Hep B and Hep A because after two shots you are good for ten years and it is worth the investment. I also got the meningitis vaccine when I knew that Northern Ghana had had an outbreak and that I would be working with children. I have never had the rabbis shots because the hurt the most and I really dont plan on playing with any stray dogs. Another aside about the rabbis shot- without a shot you have 24 hours to find a doctor, with one of the five shots you have 48 hours to get the next one. There are five shots in total I believe.
Transportation
It never hurts to have your big transport requests arranged for before you leave (to and from airport & hotel). There are not fancy official cab stands at African airports the way there are at JFK so it is kind of just a mad house of people hoping to get you to be your customer. While your physical safety is unlikely to be threatened (well maybe Nairobi also known as Nai-robbery). Instead what they are likely to do is charge you about ten times the amount of the actual fare for your riding. Saying that though they tried to rip us off all the time in Ghana and charge us a whole 2 cidis for a twenty minute ride (think $2) instead of the actual 90 cents it costs. So while you will be ripped off if you dont know the cost of the fair, it is nothing like what NY cabbies can do to your wallet. Another way to prepare before you go is simply ask the hotel how much a cab ride should cost (you always agree on the fare before getting into the cab). Once you tell a cabbie you know how much the ride costs and wont go for anything other than X they will usually just laugh it off and take you for that amount.
Tips for traveling in Africa
Jambo!
In this post I will pretend that I have the audacity to relay any useful information on Africa. As a non-African citizen I will never feel that I have any authority to say what is best for traveling in Africa or for helping Africa, I can only hope to learn from my own personal experiences (both traveling and through my work). Now that the disclaimer is out of the way....
I am going to do this post in several sections so that those of you looking for very specific advice wont have to sort through all of my ramblings to get it. This section will be on selecting a travel destination- other sections will be, preparing for your trip, smart choices while traveling, and how to have a successful safari (I've been on two so I feel fairly competent to provide advice on the matter!
Selecting a destination:
Traveling to Africa can be a very daunting idea for those who either do not study it constantly (myself) or have simply not been before. My dad for example gets all of his information from the news paper and what does he see- rape, kidnapping, armed rebel groups. What most people fail to remember is that Africa is huge, it is an entire continent and while protests in North Africa and the Middle East have to an extent shown a link between the countries it is still possible to go without bumping into a rebel fraction. Furthermore you can go pretty much anywhere and come back alive- some places just require more luck than others. The DRC is one of the most volatile countries in the world yet a few friends of mine have gone for work and safely returned. The best thing to do however is read State Department travel warnings and country profiles to decide exactly how much you want to be concerned for your safety while abroad. But remember even America has places that are not recommended to visit (I would not be safe in certain parts of DC after dark that is for sure). But the State Department is your best bet: http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/tw/tw_1764.html
For those who are really interested in getting to Africa (and I am speaking of sub-Saharan Africa) there are several countries that are so tourist oriented that I would recommend them as good introductory trips:
Ghana in west Africa is great for first time visitors, everyone speaks English (taught in school) and the country is one of Africa's oldest democracies. Accra the capital has beaches, an art market, and famed Oxford Street where it is easy to get western comforts like pizza or ice cream. Loads of cheap beach resorts dot the coast and for those with an altruistic side it is very easy to do a week of volun-tourism in Ghana for real local flavor. While there be sure to try Fufu with stew or Banku two popular Ghanaian dishes. Plantains and goat meat are other local favorites. The locals are super friendly and travel is cheap around the country especially if you take a tro-tro (really old mini van fit to seat about 20). Everyone there will call you an 'Obroni' but take no offense (means foreigner or white person) just smile and say Medasi (thank you in Twi).
The whole of East Africa is pretty much geared towards family friendly tourism although the flight is slightly longer. Uganda is great for gorilla trekking and while the Ugandan government might not have the best track record in human rights, the big brother government allows for a very safe and beautiful capital city. Meanwhile Kenya and Tanzania are both prime destinations for Safaris and luxury beach holidays. Kenya is currently on the State Department do not travel list, the recent ICC summons have caused significant political tension in the country. Unfortunately the Rift Valley (where a large portion of the violence occurred) is a popular Safari destination. My best advice would be to just be aware of the situation and to insure your trip. At the moment things appear to be calm but as my Kenyan friends say, 'we check the political forecast the way others check the weather before deciding to go into town'. Tanzania is another great introductory country to travel to with plenty of Safari options, the AMAZING island of Zanzibar, and Mt Kilimanjaro for the particularly adventurous. While Swahili is the national language here (Ugandans and Kenyans speak Swahili but do official business in English) most Tanzanians involved in the tourist industry speak English just fine and it is taught in schools.
Mt Kilimanjaro
Other great places to go to include Zambia which not only has excellent Safari choices of its own (I recommend my friend's lodge: http://marulalodgezambia.com/) but also has the impressive Victoria Falls as well. Once again it is very easy to get by in English and if in the capital Lusaka you can even go to a giant shopping mall (after spending a month in Moshi Tanzania this was probably more impressive to me than those coming directly from America).
While I have not personally been, I have heard amazing things about Namibia, another safe and tourist friendly country. While here be sure to try sand surfing! Another popular tourist destination would be Botswana who recently received free tourist adverts with the First Lady's visit.
Finally another great 'introduction' to Africa would be a trip to the rainbow nation, South Africa here you can travel through wine vineyards, be on the look out for sharks, hike up tabletop mountain, and much more. Be sure to have biltong while there!
Tuesday, March 29, 2011
Den Haag
Living in The Netherlands was a mixture of blessings and frustrations (like everything closing at 5pm except on Thursdays)... which reminds me everything closes at 5pm! So do all shopping that you wish to do for souvenirs before then because after five you can drink or eat but that is it!
Right back to Den Haag, this is a cheaper, prettier city to base yourself in for your travels and it is also very easy to get to Delft, Gouda, Rotterdam, and Leiden from here (it is also easy to get to Amsterdam with two trains leaving per hour that go via the airport- which is called Schipol, typing in Amsterdam airport at the ticket machine gets you no where).
First up in the sleepy city known as Den Haag would be a list of places to eat (in case you could not tell by now that I love food).
My absolute favorite place in all of The Hague would be this little Indonesian place called 'Jimbaran' (Prinsestraat 10). Try the Otak Otak (fish in banan leaves) or to be super full the goudo goudo. Also the chicken satay which has made its way into Dutch cuisine is pretty tasty. If you are more in the mood for some crepes Will's pancakes (which also has the famed poffertjes). It is located on Gedempte Gracht very near the shopping district on Spui (pronounced Spow).
Meanwhile Very Italian Pizza (next to the Passage) has super cheap and tasty pizza if you are on a very tight budget (be sure to save room for the nutella pizza).
While you are in The Netherlands you must try the fries (frites) but not with ketchup! Instead have them with mayo and curry sauce (soo good) or satay sauce (aka peanut sauce). While different from what most Americans dip their fries in both options are insanely tasty. The most famed fry shop in town is Kleinste Winkeltje on Papestraat (just off the expensive shopping street, Hoogstraat). They also have croquettes and bitterballen if you are in the mood for even more dutch food.
Speaking of Dutch food (which since it is mostly fried and cheese you might be sick of by day five) the Stadsherberg Goude Hooft is the best place I know to get it in The Hague, directly next to the multicolored 'Sting' the service is horrendous (as is all dutch service) but the food is great.
As for drinks there are pretty much two places to go in The Hague for drinks (both will be filled with ex pats and dutch alike). The Plein directly behind the Binnehof has the 'classier' establishments (note some places make you pay to pee even if you are a customer) while in my opinion Grote Markt caters to a slightly more rowdy crowd. Either way going out is a must since you can get loads of fantastic beers that are hard to find back home!
As for the sights there are a surprising number of ways to fill your time in The Hague. If you are in my field (International Law) you can go to one of the several courts in the Hague (although the Tribunal for Sierra Leone, gaining most of the press as of late is wrapping up). Visit one of the Court's websites to get details (ICC, ICTY, STL...)
Perhaps the most famous museum in The Hague is the Mauritshuis which houses the famed painting 'The Girl with the Pearl Earring'. It houses mostly dutch pastoral paintings so if you are not dying to see this particular painting I advise skipping it. Just next to the museum is the Binnehof or the seat of government in The Netherlands. You are actually allowed to stroll straight through the court yard where as getting into the buildings themselves is allowed on Heritage day (early September).
Continuing with the fancy building theme you can also walk by the Queen's working palace (on Noordine) and venture out to the Peace Palace as well. The Peace Palace is also home of the International Court of Justice so one cannot walk up on any given day and arrange a tour, they are done privately instead.
Also one can head out to the beach (Schevenigan) and enjoy drinks and mussels on one of the various restaurants dotting the edge of the beach (just don't expect good weather it can actually be worse than that of the UK!)
But perhaps my favorite tourist trap in The Hague, is Madurodam (aka mini-holland). Here you can stroll through all of The Netherlands in one afternoon, taking in Gouda, Rotterdam, and even the airport. Best of all it is interactive so with a few cents the Mars Bar factory will have a truck bring you a Mars Bar (yum).
As a final note the best way to get around The Hague would be by bike, there are bike lanes throughout The Netherlands (I had friends actually bike from The Hague to Gouda, or Delft, or Leiden) and it is a great way to burn off calories from all the fantastic beer, chocolate, cheese and fried goods in general. Also while you can get around via tram they only come about every 15 minutes. Just be very careful of the tram lines in certain cases when you cycle along side them (one of the five bike falls that secures your Dutch-ness is having a run in with a tram track).
And as a final final note, because it is so easy to travel within this particular area, it is worth considering including Belgium or Germany as well. Antwerp is a very very easy day trip from anywhere in The Netherlands (took me about two hours from The Hague via train) and Brussels is only a bit further). Also the airport tax charged to fly in and out of Belgium is actually cheaper than that of The Netherlands so combining the two countries is definitely worth a thought.
Traveling to The Netherlands
For most people, a trip to The Netherlands (aka Holland which is actually the name of a region not the country) is really just a stop over in Amsterdam when backpacking at some point in your 20s. Despite Amsterdam being the only city that many people can identify as being Dutch, The Netherlands is actually a very scenic country with loads to do. If you are interested in seeing sights other than the Red Light District and Pot Brownies I have some fabulous recommendations. (Don't worry Amsterdam is included too). Because I lived in The Hague for several months I will divide this into two posts, one on various day trips that you can take and one on The Hague itself....
Amsterdam: While it may be the most recognizable city in The Netherlands it certainly is not the most Dutch. Hoards of drunken tourists walk streets filled with McDonalds, Burger King, and a variety of Argentinian and Mexican restaurants. (Why Mexican restaurants are so easy to find in The Netherlands compared to the rest of Europe is beyond me but if anyone knows why I am dying to know).
Despite numerous trips to Amsterdam I have only ever had two good meals. The first is in China Town near the main train station at a Thai place called 'The little Thai Prince'. It is located at 33-A Zeedijk street and literally almost every person I have taken says it is the best Thai food they have ever had (the exception was my boyfriend when he had the misfortune of eating during boat week- what I took to be Amsterdam's version of fleet week and to be avoided at all costs). The other decent meal I had was in the restaurant of the Eden Amsterdam American Hotel (right by Leidseplein). Here you can get classic Dutch dishes such as chicken satay, croquettes, and bitterballen. http://www.edenamsterdamamericanhotel.com/en/restaurant.aspx
Also Leidsplein itself is a great area to sit at for a drink (although slightly overpriced as is everything in Amsterdam compared to elsewhere).
As for sights, taking a boat ride along the canal is a great way to see the city. You can either do it with one of the standard tourist boat operators or if you are feeling particularly adventurous it is not that difficult to hire one of your own. The tourist boats go from near the museums and near Leidsplein.
Amsterdam also has a plethora of fantastic museums to go to including the Anne Frank house (buy tickets in advance as the line can be absolutely insane), the van Gogh museum (lines can be long but move quickly) and the Rijksmuseum which houses the famous painting 'The Night Watch'. All are worth seeing but please be aware that the Van gogh museum normally does not have Stary Night (that is at the MOMA). There are various other museums in Amsterdam for those looking to do more than the most famous but these certainly are the big ones.
Other sites worth seeing include the beautiful Vondelpark, the three big canals (easily seen strolling down Leidsestraat) and the floating flower market. Of course there is also the red light district (be very careful not to point your camera in a direction that could imply you are taking a photo of one of the girls).
Red light district.
If you arrive early and move quickly, Amsterdam can easily be done in a day but you certainly never need more than two (unless you want to sleep all day and party all night). Because of the speed with which you can see the city (and the ease with which you can move around the entire country) it is wise to have multiple places to visit on your itinerary.
Gouda is a great little city (and obviously where the cheese comes from) which even has cheese wheels floating in the canals. It is a very very small little town so a morning is all that is really necessary.
Delft is also an absolutely adorable Dutch city which is well worth half a day as well (and very near Gouda so it is easy to combine the two). It is possible to climb the church in Delf (Nieuwe Kerk) but note that the stair case accommodates people going both up and down, is very steep, very narrow, and two giant Americans simply cannot pass at the same time). My friends and I actually had an amazing afternoon on a boat in Delf. Using Canal Hopper (http://www.canalhopperdelft.com/) we secured a boat for super cheap, it came with a driver and we were allowed to bring our own food and drink on (you can also have them cater for you). It was a fantastic way to see the city. There are also plenty of restaurants that allow you to sit on barges in the canal as well. All in all a great afternoon out in the city. Also my friend claims that the best poffertjes (small pancakes) are in Delft and a must as well. The place is called Ijssalon Van Bokhoven and it is on Boterburg.
The poffertjes.
Rotterdam: This Dutch city is unlike most others you will come across, famed for its architecture it is pretty nifty but not nearly as cute as the other towns (because it is not a sleepy little town it also has much better night life). Scope out the bridges that stretch across the river, the cube houses, and the giant market while here.
Leiden : is another city not very far from The Hague. It has a university frequented by many scholars of international law and is a pretty fantastic place in general. The best time to go to Leiden is for Leiden day (everyone wears red, celebrates getting rid of the Spanish, go on rides, and get drunk) this usually happens in late September and is a very festive time to go!
Also, while not a town Zaanse Schans is a great place to see a bunch of dutch windmills on the river (I was obsessed with taking photos of windmills). It is more reachable from Amsterdam so if you are splitting your time between staying in The Hague and Amsterdam while traveling around I would recommend including this while based in Amsterdam. It has loads of little reenactment shops you can pay to go into, or if you prefer you can just stroll around without paying. Cafe's on the other side of the river allow you to eat with a fantastic view!
Last but not least, the famed dutch tulips. The most famous place to see these tulips would be the Keukenhof Gardens: http://www.keukenhof.nl/
The best time to go would be April if you want to see the tulips (you really should) and it is worth a whole day if not at least half of one. If you are not renting a car it is a bit tricky to get there (you take a bus from a bus stand outside the airport, making it equally accessible from both The Hague and Amsterdam). Please know that the gardens are not open all year round, so if you want to go please check the website before planning your trip!
Sunday, March 6, 2011
Most depressing news ever..
I found this article on CNN the other day and as a lover of travel, it broke my heart.
http://www.cnn.com/2011/TRAVEL/02/04/americans.travel.domestically/index.html?hpt=C2
The article does have a point, there are many places left in the US that I am absolutely dying to go and with skiing, beaches, history, and huge cities you could spend your whole life traveling the 50 states.
But that does not mean you should!
I have been to many places that make most Americans incredibly queasy but it is this ignorance that stems from not going anywhere that is such a large part of the problem.
For example when I went to Zanzibar which is a luxury resort island of the coast of Tanzania all of my American friends offered words of caution. Meanwhile most European friends who had heard of Zanzibar and could locate it on a map were simply just jealous. Since only 30% of Americans have passports that means only 30% of Americans can only have hoped to travel to Africa. This means a majority of Americans are getting any information they have on Africa from the media- and the media only covers what sells- the conflicts. Africa is a giant continent and while some parts of it are currently unstable, this is not the case for every country (there are over 50 of them!) So with less Americans traveling they had no idea that I was simply going to paradise.
This ignorance that stems from not traveling creates additional problems as well. When Americans don't travel they are not exposed to new cultures and therefore any misconceptions they have developed from one sided stories are not rectified. America has a significant role to play in the international community, how can we expect to make a positive impact if we are operating based on misconceptions? The only way you can really get to even hope to understand a culture is to be a part of it, and if Americans are not traveling they are remaining completely ignorant of what the rest of the world is actually like.
My dad is a pretty good example of how beneficial traveling can be. While it was easy to get him to places such as Ireland and the UK getting him to places more out of his comfort zone has been a tremendous task. However each time he has gone (dragging his feet the whole way) he ends up having an amazing time and talks about going back. My dad has formed his opinions based on the limited information he has received from the mass media, however once he has actually experienced the culture he has realized that there is more than what is exposed in the American media.
If you don't have a passport, go out and get one. Once you begin to experience the world outside of America you will be glad you did!
http://www.cnn.com/2011/TRAVEL/02/04/americans.travel.domestically/index.html?hpt=C2
The article does have a point, there are many places left in the US that I am absolutely dying to go and with skiing, beaches, history, and huge cities you could spend your whole life traveling the 50 states.
But that does not mean you should!
I have been to many places that make most Americans incredibly queasy but it is this ignorance that stems from not going anywhere that is such a large part of the problem.
For example when I went to Zanzibar which is a luxury resort island of the coast of Tanzania all of my American friends offered words of caution. Meanwhile most European friends who had heard of Zanzibar and could locate it on a map were simply just jealous. Since only 30% of Americans have passports that means only 30% of Americans can only have hoped to travel to Africa. This means a majority of Americans are getting any information they have on Africa from the media- and the media only covers what sells- the conflicts. Africa is a giant continent and while some parts of it are currently unstable, this is not the case for every country (there are over 50 of them!) So with less Americans traveling they had no idea that I was simply going to paradise.
This ignorance that stems from not traveling creates additional problems as well. When Americans don't travel they are not exposed to new cultures and therefore any misconceptions they have developed from one sided stories are not rectified. America has a significant role to play in the international community, how can we expect to make a positive impact if we are operating based on misconceptions? The only way you can really get to even hope to understand a culture is to be a part of it, and if Americans are not traveling they are remaining completely ignorant of what the rest of the world is actually like.
My dad is a pretty good example of how beneficial traveling can be. While it was easy to get him to places such as Ireland and the UK getting him to places more out of his comfort zone has been a tremendous task. However each time he has gone (dragging his feet the whole way) he ends up having an amazing time and talks about going back. My dad has formed his opinions based on the limited information he has received from the mass media, however once he has actually experienced the culture he has realized that there is more than what is exposed in the American media.
If you don't have a passport, go out and get one. Once you begin to experience the world outside of America you will be glad you did!
Sunday, February 27, 2011
How to save money in London
For those of you reading this preparing to go to London in the near future, the situation is not as dire as it was when I arrived and the exchange rate was 2:1 but London is still expensive. Therefore in this section I will fill you in on all the ways to save money while you are there (so you can do more shopping).
1) Buy a week long travel card! You can get this on an oyster card but there is a £5 deposit so be sure to turn it back in at the end of your trip. Many people just 'top up' their card with an amount of money or even worse buy a daily travel card but that is not wise. Unless you plan on using the tube only once a day this is a good way to save money on travel. Also if you are doing pay as you go and you change from a tube to train or bus you get charged twice, not so when using a weekly (or daily) travel card!
2) London is full of adorable little sandwhich shops where you can get your fill for lunch without spending too much money. Find one of these independently own shops (avoid Eat and Pret, while I love them both they are more expensive) and you can save your money for a nice dinner. Also grocery stores such as M&S and Waitrose have really nice sandwhiches to go as well. Alternatively eat at the borough market (thur-sat) where there are loads of stalls full of good cheap food!
3) Don't bother buying theatre tickets in advance unless you are dying to see one particular show and it is really popular. Instead either go to the theatre itself or the Leicester Sq ticket box on the day of for tickets (just make sure Leicester sq is offering your show on a discount as not all are). This way you pay less as the theatre is keen to sell out its tickets (although sometimes this could mean standing room only). You are guaranteed to save money this way! Also avoid anyone else in the Leicester Sq area trying to sell discount tickets as they are not legit.
4) When deciding where to stay do not stay on the Circle/District line. The line is barely tolerable during the week and often is shut down on the weekend. This could mean taking cabs in order to get places or long walks instead.
5) Always ask for tap water! London tap water is perfectly fine to drink so always ask for tap water at restaurants. When they ask if you want still or sparkling water, unlike in America they will charge you (once it was a whole £5). So remember tap water it is with your meal!
6) If you know you are going to take a cab go to the TFL website and get a number of a local cab company and pre-book. While they are not as nifty as the london black cabs they are cheaper and therefore a smart choice! Remember though, if you are looking to get a cab after a night out it can be a major wait for either a black cab or pre booked cab so if you know what time you think you will want to head home pre book way in advance! http://www.tfl.gov.uk/gettingaround/taxisandminicabs/taxis/1136.aspx
7) If you happen to be a bank of america customer rejoice! They have a partnership with Barclay's bank so if you withdraw from their cash machine you do not have any extra fees for withdrawing or converting so be sure to look for those. This will save you the usual $5 charges most banks have!
8) If you are looking to have a relaxing spa experience without paying London prices, go to London College of Beauty. Here trainees will do a perfectly good job and you wont have to pay nearly as much! They do everything from mani/pedis to massages to waxing and are nicely located off Oxford Street so easy to get to.
9) My best tip to enjoying London is not to think about the currency conversion because it will most likely drive you crazy and prevent you from having any fun. You only live once so be smart but don't hold back and not have as much fun!
1) Buy a week long travel card! You can get this on an oyster card but there is a £5 deposit so be sure to turn it back in at the end of your trip. Many people just 'top up' their card with an amount of money or even worse buy a daily travel card but that is not wise. Unless you plan on using the tube only once a day this is a good way to save money on travel. Also if you are doing pay as you go and you change from a tube to train or bus you get charged twice, not so when using a weekly (or daily) travel card!
2) London is full of adorable little sandwhich shops where you can get your fill for lunch without spending too much money. Find one of these independently own shops (avoid Eat and Pret, while I love them both they are more expensive) and you can save your money for a nice dinner. Also grocery stores such as M&S and Waitrose have really nice sandwhiches to go as well. Alternatively eat at the borough market (thur-sat) where there are loads of stalls full of good cheap food!
3) Don't bother buying theatre tickets in advance unless you are dying to see one particular show and it is really popular. Instead either go to the theatre itself or the Leicester Sq ticket box on the day of for tickets (just make sure Leicester sq is offering your show on a discount as not all are). This way you pay less as the theatre is keen to sell out its tickets (although sometimes this could mean standing room only). You are guaranteed to save money this way! Also avoid anyone else in the Leicester Sq area trying to sell discount tickets as they are not legit.
4) When deciding where to stay do not stay on the Circle/District line. The line is barely tolerable during the week and often is shut down on the weekend. This could mean taking cabs in order to get places or long walks instead.
5) Always ask for tap water! London tap water is perfectly fine to drink so always ask for tap water at restaurants. When they ask if you want still or sparkling water, unlike in America they will charge you (once it was a whole £5). So remember tap water it is with your meal!
6) If you know you are going to take a cab go to the TFL website and get a number of a local cab company and pre-book. While they are not as nifty as the london black cabs they are cheaper and therefore a smart choice! Remember though, if you are looking to get a cab after a night out it can be a major wait for either a black cab or pre booked cab so if you know what time you think you will want to head home pre book way in advance! http://www.tfl.gov.uk/gettingaround/taxisandminicabs/taxis/1136.aspx
7) If you happen to be a bank of america customer rejoice! They have a partnership with Barclay's bank so if you withdraw from their cash machine you do not have any extra fees for withdrawing or converting so be sure to look for those. This will save you the usual $5 charges most banks have!
8) If you are looking to have a relaxing spa experience without paying London prices, go to London College of Beauty. Here trainees will do a perfectly good job and you wont have to pay nearly as much! They do everything from mani/pedis to massages to waxing and are nicely located off Oxford Street so easy to get to.
9) My best tip to enjoying London is not to think about the currency conversion because it will most likely drive you crazy and prevent you from having any fun. You only live once so be smart but don't hold back and not have as much fun!
Wednesday, January 26, 2011
London Part Four: seeing the sights.
Ok, as promised here is what I recommend that you see while in London. Thanks to the internet and a plethora of guidebooks I do not think that this is the most important part of the blog but I will include it anyway!
St Paul's Cathedral is obviously a tourist must, if you want to get in for free just go to the Sunday service. You can also climb to the top for a great view but it is dependent on weather as you cannot do it if there is too much wind. (Central Line, St. Paul's)
Tower Hill is usually on most people's lists but I think it is totally overrated. If you have a good tour guide you might find it amusing but it is honestly just a lot of brick. The main reason people go is because the crown jewels are kept inside. While they certainly are impressive you only get to see them up close very quickly. So no potential thieves can study the case long enough they actually put you on people movers so you just glide by the jewels. If you only plan on going to London once in your life, are dying to see them, have loads of money and loads of times then by all means put it on your list (it is historically important). However if you are on a tight budget or do not have a lot of time I would personally skip this one. (Circle and District Line, Tower Hill)
On the other hand if you are on a tight budget the art museums in London are fantastic, at the National Gallery you can see all sorts of famous paintings free of charge and the same goes for the National Portrait Gallery and the Tates (modern and britain). For these you only pay for the special exhibits so unless you are dying to see one just skip that part.
On a side note the Tate modern has amazing views and the architecture of the building is pretty cool too.
Parliament and Westminster are both on most lists of things to see as well. If you plan in advance (and get a special pass from the American Embassy) you can actually get tickets to see the Prime Minsters Questions in Parliament. Westminster is really expensive to get into but also really worth seeing so pinch some pennies and go for it. http://www.parliament.uk/visiting/attend/debates/
Also on most people's list is the changing of the guard. Please note that it is not held every day so check in advance (it is also near St James Park, Big Ben/ parliament, and Westminster so consider doing all of those together).
If you want a totally random museum the Brand Museum in Nottinghill is not half bad. It gives you the history of Britain through marketing and is really different from most museums you would see. If you are visiting a resident who has already been dragged to all the main sights multiple times (like I was) suggest this one!
If you are into walking or running I think it is the best way to see London. There are actually free walking tours (http://www.newlondon-tours.com/) which are really worth it (I have done the Munich one). Also just walking up along the river from Tower Bridge to the Tate and then across to St Pauls is a great walk (and lets you walk over the famous millennium bridge). It is also a really good way to avoid the rip offs that are the double decker tour buses. If you really want to be on a double decker bus just take a regular one for less than £2 and see where it takes you.
Most tourists have to go to Harrods (which I dread) but if you are insistent on going remember these two things. One- at least take the Egyptian escalators so you have done something that does not exist in other over priced department stores. Two- if you go to the very very bottom floor you can buy all these various 'Harrods brand' items and is probably the cheapest part of the store. Instead of Harrods I recommend Selfridges which is equally luxurious but not as crowded. Go to the amazing shoe hall or take tea here and you will feel instantly stylish. Alternatively take a walk up Sloane St for all the luxury stores.
Shoe Hall at Selfridges.
If you have a lot of time on your hands, head out to Greenwhich, it requires at least a half day so keep that in mind while planning. While most people go for the observatory Greenwhich is great for other reasons. Take the clipper boat out to take in the sights along the river to get there. It is a little more expensive than the tube or train but worth it (and drops you off right at the centre). There are a few pubs along the river that have great views and are worth a trip. Also unbeknownst to most there is a market with plenty of neat little gadgets as well. In the summer the grounds of the college and the observatory are worth a stroll.
Finally while it pains me to include this I must add the London Dungeon. It is possibly the biggest tourist trap in London but if you are in the right mind set it can be hilarious. If you get out at the London Bridge tube stop you cannot miss it (or its rip off across the street the London bridge experience, avoid this like the plague). It tells you the horrible scary history of London and includes a few rides as well (although I think the hanging is a bit too morbid). If you are really keen for something totally random to do, include this stop.
London part three: drinking and nights out
I promise that I will eventually get to a sight seeing portion of this London section but in my opinion you can figure out where to go based on just about any guide book you pick up but not all will tell you about the smallest most fabulous pub in all of London!
This will be divided into two sections because going out to a pub and going out dancing are two completely different things in London (a pub is not really the same as an American bar, while you are still likely to get drunk it is a completely different experience).
First pubs. They are great any time of day (I know people who have been in at 11 am on a Saturday) and great to stop off and rest your feet in (the way most American's would in a Starbucks or some other coffee joint when sightseeing back home). While it is pretty much impossible to not find a pub in London to visit you must be weary of the chain pubs (Weatherspoons, Llyods... ). While a lot of them can just be cheap pubs that cater to tourists, if you stick to this list you are bound to have some authentic pub experiences.
First as mentioned in the previous entry is the Cheshire Cheese on Fleet St (about half way between St Pauls and the Courts). It is hidden down a side alley so look for the lantern on the street with the name on it. This is a Sam Smith's pub only so you will not get a London Pride or Fosters here. Regardless Sam Smith's makes good beer (try the Alpine lager) and is worth a go.
Another Sam Smith's pub is the Anchor tap in Butler's Wharf. It has an equally old England feel about it and the staff are lovely. The manager Jason is particularly hilarious. It is located within easy walking distance of both the Tower Bridge and Tower Hill so great for a stop off post sight seeing. Also I am convinced that Craig Ferguson referenced this pub in his autobiography when he spoke of his near attempt of suicide.
Another great pub that is a little out of the way is the Kings Arm on Tooley St. (London Bridge tube station) It is a real locals pub with an interesting Bermondsey crowd to go with it. There is a theme almost every night of the week (such as the night where you can play your own ipod music) and aside from having a great beer selection has really good food (my personal favorite is Saturday brunch). If you are there at the beginning of the month see if they are doing their themed bingo night, it is worth it!
There are several fabulous pubs near the borough market but the one that stands out is possibly the smallest pub in all of London called The Rake. While the pub may be tiny their beer selection is not (as an American I could find Sierra Nevada and Sam Adams there, meanwhile my boyfriend had a beer that was well over 12% once). Any beer enthusiast really ought to go.
While not really a British pub, the Katzenjammers Bierkeller near borough market is also worth a visit. It is one of the only places in London I am aware of that you can get beer in a stein.
Finally if you are insistent on going somewhere in the tourist center for a drink such as Leicester square (pronounced Lester sq so you don't make anyone laugh at you while asking for directions). Waxy O'Connors is a novelty worth going to. It is a huge Irish pub with a giant fake tree in the middle that often has live music. http://www.waxys.com/
Now if you are looking for a place to go out and dance in London I have two major pieces of advice, the first is to be prepared to shell out and queue up (I hardly ever actually see girls get to cut the line) and two please whatever you do, no matter how cool the hostel posters make it sound, avoid Zoobar (unless you are 17 and looking to get groped by old men). Also while London is full of famous clubs (Cafe de Paris, Funky Buddha, Chinawhite) the drinks are often over priced (think £15 for a cocktail) and a lot of them play really bad music (if you are a drum and base fan I apologize for insulting your music). That being said it is still possible to have an affordable night out in London.
To begin your night out I recommend Jewel bar in Covent garden. They are insanely anal about when happy hour ends (they once accused a friend of setting her watch back) but their happy hour prices are really good. Sugar Reef in Piccadilly also used to be great for such deals but I hear it has gone down hill since becoming 'Grace'. Once you are done with happy hour I would recommend heading to the clubs early; entry is usually free or cheap before ten pm on Fridays and 9pm on Saturdays and surprisingly there are usually already a decent number of people inside. Roadhouse in Covent Garden is hands down the best place to go out in London (they also have an on line guest list which can help save on entry fee). There is a mix of both live music and a dj at this place every night and is perfect for dancing. In fact I have never had someone go to Roadhouse and hate it. Other decent places include both Guanabara and Club Salsa (both Tottenham court road area).
Electric bird cage (now called Pep-C) is also fantastic (as long as you are not drinking) it is really funky inside and has free entry up until a certain point.
The biggest tourist trap of all (but kind of worth going) is the Smirnoff Icebar in Piccadilly. When I went your entry fee got you a free drink and unlimited amount of time in the Ice bar. It has become so popular that they now have time slots. However if you have never sat on ice chairs and drank out of a cup made of ice it might be worth indulging the novelty.
London part two: food!
Classic British Fare, Fish & Chips plus a Shandy
Despite stereotypes the British do know how to cook, unless you go to Greggs or Tesco for your meal (sorry greggs and tesco lovers) you will be impressed. Regardless of if you are on a budget or looking to spend big bucks there are plenty of good places to eat in London.
My absolute favorite and probably the most expensive on the list is 'Les Trois Garcons' in Shoreditch. (http://www.loungelover.co.uk/) This place is worth eating in just for the ambiance alone! Last time I ate there my boyfriend sat with a stuffed, bejeweled giraffe above his head! The food is obviously french and never disappoints. It is an a la carte menu (£39.50/ £45.50) which changes regularly so if you are a picky eater it is worth checking the on line menu before you go. It will be said that it is a little bit obnoxious to reach this restaurant as it is not really with in walking distance of a tube stop - I am guessing that most of the patrons can afford taxis- but you can still reach it via public transport and it really really is worth it.
Another expensive yet amazing restaurant is the Chop House (http://www.chophouse-restaurant.co.uk/). This restaurant immediately puts any rumors about bad British cuisine to rest. Once I believe both rook and squirrel were on the seasonal menu (I was not that daring). In the summer you can also sit outside and have fantastic views of the tower bridge. As an insiders tip, the bar has an amazing menu for much less (they often have two courses for £12 deals) and while you are unlikely to find squirrel on the bar menu it will save you a lot of money. As a result of this though it is pretty much impossible to just walk in and get a table on the bar side (but usually easy to do on the restaurant side) so be sure to book in advance!
The last expensive restaurant that I would recommend (or at least would back when I was there) is the Blue Elephant. I hear it is going down hill so I suggest going only if you really enjoy the novelty. It is a Thai restaurant in Fullham that reminds me a bit of the rainforest cafe. There is foliage everywhere as well as a few streams and coy ponds. The food was amazing all times but the last time that I went (hence my caution). The ambiance is really fun and while you can get great Thai food for much less in London (like Kai Thai in Butler's Wharf) it is still worth the trip if you can afford it! (http://www.blueelephant.com/)
For a fancy meal in London without as hefty of a price tag I recommend the restaurant on top of the National Portrait Gallery. It is not cheap but it is not overpriced either. Please note that it is not open every day so check before you go! The view is absolutely amazing as you can see most of London's famous landmarks from the top. The food is also very good and worth the price. If you have seen the movie 'The Closer' this restaurant is in part of the film. This place is by far one of my favorite places to take people visiting the city because the food is good and the view is fantastic! See: http://www.npg.org.uk/about/gallery-spaces/portrait-restaurant.php
While not an amazing restaurant but excellent for a good view of London I would recommend the Pizza Express across from the Globe Theatre. Pizza express has really good value pizza (and you can get it for really cheap by googling for vouchers on line) and while a massive chain, the pizza is good. You can be pretentious and pretend it is beneath you but everyone loves Pizza Express. This one location is particularly good as you can see St Pauls, the Thames, the globe, and more as you dine on your delicious and cheap pizza. If you are in the area definitely give it a go.
Another great British establishment is Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese on fleet street (http://www.pubs.com/main_site/pub_details.php?pub_id=154). It is a Sam Smith's pub (micro brewery based up north) and has woodchips on the floor and a fire burning in the winter. Apparently a pub has been in that location since 1538 and claims loads of famous patrons. The food is not half bad either. Whether you are stopping in for a quick pint or a meal be warned it is really really popular. On a weekday half the city drinks there and it can be impossible just to find a place to stand. Weekends can be crowded as well but are often a better bet. Also there have been many times that it has randomly been closed for no explicable reason so it is worth checking in advance if you really want to go.
London is also famous for the amazing ethnic options available (there is even an all you can eat Ethiopian buffet) but there are two places that have really stood out to me. First for North African I really love both Souk Medina's in Covent Garden. The food is tasty and reasonably priced and the atmosphere is pretty fun as well. If you are going out with a large crowd you really ought to take a look at their group menus. I did a birthday party here once and it was such a steal. For £30 there were unlimited appetizers and mains (really unlimited, they filled it as many times as you wanted). You also get a bottle of wine (or I think four bottles of beer) EACH under this deal as well as dessert and a belly dancer. I really cannot recommend this place enough. http://www.soukrestaurant.co.uk/index.asp
The most infamous place to get ethnic food however is Brick Lane. Here the streets are lined with Indian restaurants with men ready to bargain with you to entice you into their establishment. You can pretty much get first free drink, free poppadoms, and 10% -15% off your bill regardless of where you go. While I do not have one particular restaurant on the Lane that I recommend I would suggest the test that I use, if the restaurant is totally dead it is probably for a reason... find the ones that have a few tables full (although if you are going early even the good ones tend to be empty then). http://www.visitbricklane.org/
Another tip when going out to eat in London is to use top table. (http://www.toptable.com/) They have reviews and you can often book on line and get special deals.
Even if you just pop into a pub for some fish and chips in London you are likely to have a good meal so fear not and embrace London for all of the delicious food, mushy peas and all!
Tuesday, January 25, 2011
Living it up in London part one
I. Love. London. Love love love it! I would say I could live there forever but I need sunshine. Regardless, I like to think of myself as 'in the know' as where to go. I was there for nearly three years and was obsessed with doing as much as possible while I was there. So in an attempt to ensure that everyone else loves London I am going to share my knowledge. Anyone else with valuable suggestions please feel free to add your comments.
First as for time to go- it will be less crowded if you go in the winter but while it will be less crowded but it will be so much more depressing (think darkness at 4pm). It does not get 'warm' and I use that word loosely until May so if you want to have nice strolls May through September I think is your best time to go.
Now for my spew of knowledge....
First for the ladies, shopping!
-I am American and therefore will always have a love for pretty malls. London did not have any fantastic malls (in my opinion) until recently, Westfields (yes they are all over America). The reason I think it is great is because it has all the cute little UK stores in one undercover location (good for rainy days). This way if you are looking to pick up some clothes or shoes that you cannot get in the USA, you can find them all under one roof. (Although now that Asos.com is in America you can get a lot of it on line!). Take the Central line to Shephards Bush and you cannot miss it.
The other reason that Westfields is a must is simply that Oxford and Regent St (while massive tourist locations) are horrible to actually do any proper shopping on. You are walking on super crowded streets with the stores spread down many many blocks with crappy little stores in between. You are held up by street crossings, bombarded with people passing out fliers, and if it is raining it is even worse. Of course Selfridges is on Oxford St so you will most likely have to brave a bit of crowds regardless!
Oxford Street at Christmas
-For more unique shopping you have many many options in London. Notoriously there is Camden (worth seeing for people watching but unless you are into pleather you wont be buying much). The other big tourist shopping street is Portobello Road. It becomes absolutely slammed by noon so the earlier the better. It requires serious hunting to find a good deal but they are there. Particularly portobello green (if you are coming from nottinghill it is at the other end of the market and under the underpass) has loads of good places to get fascinators or hand made jewelry. Take Central Line to Nottinghill Highgate.
Meanwhile Kingly Court (off Carnaby street which is in turn off Regent St) has loads of kitschy shops as well as some good boutiques. It also has a nice little cafe which serves candy cakes (giant cupcakes with very bright icing). Traffic people (http://www.trafficpeople.co.uk/shop/?gclid=CJ2O5efu5asCFWJn5QodKSUdJQ) is a particularly good store for getting a little something for going out in.
Finally for clothing and accessories there is Spitalfield's market near Liverpool street. Go on a Sunday as the things displayed in the market change daily. Things I have bought at this market include a hand made coat (when I tried one on and thought I might need to go a size up the man actually said 'o no I made a few smalls smaller than the others', proof he made them, a dress made out of men's suit jackets and ties, and a rather cute t-shirt. Other days it is an antique market, art market etc. To get a full schedule go to :http://www.spitalfields.co.uk/
As for food you must go to Borough market (from London Bridge tube station), Thursday is the best day to go (and avoid lunch time to avoid the lunch crowd unless you are also looking for lunch). You are unlikely to buy something (although there is an excellent beer shop) but it is a worth looking around and sampling some of the fares. If you are keen to eat there for a meal it is a great idea, you can get a super cheap and amazing meal in the market itself if you are on a budget or you can go to one of the many restaurants surrounding it (they pretty much all use fresh, local, food). I have eaten at (and loved) fish!, roast, feng sushi, and the oyster bar and not been disappointed. There is also a tapas place at the head of the market (http://www.brindisa.com/), it is legit tapas (has special catalan dishes) but it does not take reservations and is always packed. (It too is amazing but if you want to plan in advance might not be worth it).
That is it for shopping up next will be my second favorite activity - eating.
First as for time to go- it will be less crowded if you go in the winter but while it will be less crowded but it will be so much more depressing (think darkness at 4pm). It does not get 'warm' and I use that word loosely until May so if you want to have nice strolls May through September I think is your best time to go.
Now for my spew of knowledge....
First for the ladies, shopping!
-I am American and therefore will always have a love for pretty malls. London did not have any fantastic malls (in my opinion) until recently, Westfields (yes they are all over America). The reason I think it is great is because it has all the cute little UK stores in one undercover location (good for rainy days). This way if you are looking to pick up some clothes or shoes that you cannot get in the USA, you can find them all under one roof. (Although now that Asos.com is in America you can get a lot of it on line!). Take the Central line to Shephards Bush and you cannot miss it.
The other reason that Westfields is a must is simply that Oxford and Regent St (while massive tourist locations) are horrible to actually do any proper shopping on. You are walking on super crowded streets with the stores spread down many many blocks with crappy little stores in between. You are held up by street crossings, bombarded with people passing out fliers, and if it is raining it is even worse. Of course Selfridges is on Oxford St so you will most likely have to brave a bit of crowds regardless!
Oxford Street at Christmas
-For more unique shopping you have many many options in London. Notoriously there is Camden (worth seeing for people watching but unless you are into pleather you wont be buying much). The other big tourist shopping street is Portobello Road. It becomes absolutely slammed by noon so the earlier the better. It requires serious hunting to find a good deal but they are there. Particularly portobello green (if you are coming from nottinghill it is at the other end of the market and under the underpass) has loads of good places to get fascinators or hand made jewelry. Take Central Line to Nottinghill Highgate.
Meanwhile Kingly Court (off Carnaby street which is in turn off Regent St) has loads of kitschy shops as well as some good boutiques. It also has a nice little cafe which serves candy cakes (giant cupcakes with very bright icing). Traffic people (http://www.trafficpeople.co.uk/shop/?gclid=CJ2O5efu5asCFWJn5QodKSUdJQ) is a particularly good store for getting a little something for going out in.
Finally for clothing and accessories there is Spitalfield's market near Liverpool street. Go on a Sunday as the things displayed in the market change daily. Things I have bought at this market include a hand made coat (when I tried one on and thought I might need to go a size up the man actually said 'o no I made a few smalls smaller than the others', proof he made them, a dress made out of men's suit jackets and ties, and a rather cute t-shirt. Other days it is an antique market, art market etc. To get a full schedule go to :http://www.spitalfields.co.uk/
As for food you must go to Borough market (from London Bridge tube station), Thursday is the best day to go (and avoid lunch time to avoid the lunch crowd unless you are also looking for lunch). You are unlikely to buy something (although there is an excellent beer shop) but it is a worth looking around and sampling some of the fares. If you are keen to eat there for a meal it is a great idea, you can get a super cheap and amazing meal in the market itself if you are on a budget or you can go to one of the many restaurants surrounding it (they pretty much all use fresh, local, food). I have eaten at (and loved) fish!, roast, feng sushi, and the oyster bar and not been disappointed. There is also a tapas place at the head of the market (http://www.brindisa.com/), it is legit tapas (has special catalan dishes) but it does not take reservations and is always packed. (It too is amazing but if you want to plan in advance might not be worth it).
That is it for shopping up next will be my second favorite activity - eating.
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