London Part Four: seeing the sights.

Ok, as promised here is what I recommend that you see while in London. Thanks to the internet and a plethora of guidebooks I do not think that this is the most important part of the blog but I will include it anyway!

St Paul's Cathedral is obviously a tourist must, if you want to get in for free just go to the Sunday service. You can also climb to the top for a great view but it is dependent on weather as you cannot do it if there is too much wind. (Central Line, St. Paul's)

Tower Hill is usually on most people's lists but I think it is totally overrated. If you have a good tour guide you might find it amusing but it is honestly just a lot of brick. The main reason people go is because the crown jewels are kept inside. While they certainly are impressive you only get to see them up close very quickly. So no potential thieves can study the case long enough they actually put you on people movers so you just glide by the jewels. If you only plan on going to London once in your life, are dying to see them, have loads of money and loads of times then by all means put it on your list (it is historically important). However if you are on a tight budget or do not have a lot of time I would personally skip this one. (Circle and District Line, Tower Hill)

On the other hand if you are on a tight budget the art museums in London are fantastic, at the National Gallery you can see all sorts of famous paintings free of charge and the same goes for the National Portrait Gallery and the Tates (modern and britain). For these you only pay for the special exhibits so unless you are dying to see one just skip that part.

On a side note the Tate modern has amazing views and the architecture of the building is pretty cool too.


Parliament and Westminster are both on most lists of things to see as well. If you plan in advance (and get a special pass from the American Embassy) you can actually get tickets to see the Prime Minsters Questions in Parliament. Westminster is really expensive to get into but also really worth seeing so pinch some pennies and go for it. http://www.parliament.uk/visiting/attend/debates/

Also on most people's list is the changing of the guard. Please note that it is not held every day so check in advance (it is also near St James Park, Big Ben/ parliament, and Westminster so consider doing all of those together).

If you want a totally random museum the Brand Museum in Nottinghill is not half bad. It gives you the history of Britain through marketing and is really different from most museums you would see. If you are visiting a resident who has already been dragged to all the main sights multiple times (like I was) suggest this one!

If you are into walking or running I think it is the best way to see London. There are actually free walking tours (http://www.newlondon-tours.com/) which are really worth it (I have done the Munich one). Also just walking up along the river from Tower Bridge to the Tate and then across to St Pauls is a great walk (and lets you walk over the famous millennium bridge). It is also a really good way to avoid the rip offs that are the double decker tour buses. If you really want to be on a double decker bus just take a regular one for less than £2 and see where it takes you.

Most tourists have to go to Harrods (which I dread) but if you are insistent on going remember these two things. One- at least take the Egyptian escalators so you have done something that does not exist in other over priced department stores. Two- if you go to the very very bottom floor you can buy all these various 'Harrods brand' items and is probably the cheapest part of the store. Instead of Harrods I recommend Selfridges which is equally luxurious but not as crowded. Go to the amazing shoe hall or take tea here and you will feel instantly stylish. Alternatively take a walk up Sloane St for all the luxury stores.


Shoe Hall at Selfridges.


If you have a lot of time on your hands, head out to Greenwhich, it requires at least a half day so keep that in mind while planning. While most people go for the observatory Greenwhich is great for other reasons. Take the clipper boat out to take in the sights along the river to get there. It is a little more expensive than the tube or train but worth it (and drops you off right at the centre). There are a few pubs along the river that have great views and are worth a trip. Also unbeknownst to most there is a market with plenty of neat little gadgets as well. In the summer the grounds of the college and the observatory are worth a stroll.

Finally while it pains me to include this I must add the London Dungeon. It is possibly the biggest tourist trap in London but if you are in the right mind set it can be hilarious. If you get out at the London Bridge tube stop you cannot miss it (or its rip off across the street the London bridge experience, avoid this like the plague). It tells you the horrible scary history of London and includes a few rides as well (although I think the hanging is a bit too morbid). If you are really keen for something totally random to do, include this stop.

London part three: drinking and nights out

I promise that I will eventually get to a sight seeing portion of this London section but in my opinion you can figure out where to go based on just about any guide book you pick up but not all will tell you about the smallest most fabulous pub in all of London!

This will be divided into two sections because going out to a pub and going out dancing are two completely different things in London (a pub is not really the same as an American bar, while you are still likely to get drunk it is a completely different experience).

First pubs. They are great any time of day (I know people who have been in at 11 am on a Saturday) and great to stop off and rest your feet in (the way most American's would in a Starbucks or some other coffee joint when sightseeing back home). While it is pretty much impossible to not find a pub in London to visit you must be weary of the chain pubs (Weatherspoons, Llyods... ). While a lot of them can just be cheap pubs that cater to tourists, if you stick to this list you are bound to have some authentic pub experiences.

First as mentioned in the previous entry is the Cheshire Cheese on Fleet St (about half way between St Pauls and the Courts). It is hidden down a side alley so look for the lantern on the street with the name on it. This is a Sam Smith's pub only so you will not get a London Pride or Fosters here. Regardless Sam Smith's makes good beer (try the Alpine lager) and is worth a go.

Another Sam Smith's pub is the Anchor tap in Butler's Wharf. It has an equally old England feel about it and the staff are lovely. The manager Jason is particularly hilarious. It is located within easy walking distance of both the Tower Bridge and Tower Hill so great for a stop off post sight seeing. Also I am convinced that Craig Ferguson referenced this pub in his autobiography when he spoke of his near attempt of suicide.



Another great pub that is a little out of the way is the Kings Arm on Tooley St. (London Bridge tube station) It is a real locals pub with an interesting Bermondsey crowd to go with it. There is a theme almost every night of the week (such as the night where you can play your own ipod music) and aside from having a great beer selection has really good food (my personal favorite is Saturday brunch). If you are there at the beginning of the month see if they are doing their themed bingo night, it is worth it!


There are several fabulous pubs near the borough market but the one that stands out is possibly the smallest pub in all of London called The Rake. While the pub may be tiny their beer selection is not (as an American I could find Sierra Nevada and Sam Adams there, meanwhile my boyfriend had a beer that was well over 12% once). Any beer enthusiast really ought to go.

While not really a British pub, the Katzenjammers Bierkeller near borough market is also worth a visit. It is one of the only places in London I am aware of that you can get beer in a stein.

Finally if you are insistent on going somewhere in the tourist center for a drink such as Leicester square (pronounced Lester sq so you don't make anyone laugh at you while asking for directions). Waxy O'Connors is a novelty worth going to. It is a huge Irish pub with a giant fake tree in the middle that often has live music. http://www.waxys.com/


Now if you are looking for a place to go out and dance in London I have two major pieces of advice, the first is to be prepared to shell out and queue up (I hardly ever actually see girls get to cut the line) and two please whatever you do, no matter how cool the hostel posters make it sound, avoid Zoobar (unless you are 17 and looking to get groped by old men). Also while London is full of famous clubs (Cafe de Paris, Funky Buddha, Chinawhite) the drinks are often over priced (think £15 for a cocktail) and a lot of them play really bad music (if you are a drum and base fan I apologize for insulting your music). That being said it is still possible to have an affordable night out in London.

To begin your night out I recommend Jewel bar in Covent garden. They are insanely anal about when happy hour ends (they once accused a friend of setting her watch back) but their happy hour prices are really good. Sugar Reef in Piccadilly also used to be great for such deals but I hear it has gone down hill since becoming 'Grace'. Once you are done with happy hour I would recommend heading to the clubs early; entry is usually free or cheap before ten pm on Fridays and 9pm on Saturdays and surprisingly there are usually already a decent number of people inside. Roadhouse in Covent Garden is hands down the best place to go out in London (they also have an on line guest list which can help save on entry fee). There is a mix of both live music and a dj at this place every night and is perfect for dancing. In fact I have never had someone go to Roadhouse and hate it. Other decent places include both Guanabara and Club Salsa (both Tottenham court road area).

Electric bird cage (now called Pep-C) is also fantastic (as long as you are not drinking) it is really funky inside and has free entry up until a certain point.

The biggest tourist trap of all (but kind of worth going) is the Smirnoff Icebar in Piccadilly. When I went your entry fee got you a free drink and unlimited amount of time in the Ice bar. It has become so popular that they now have time slots. However if you have never sat on ice chairs and drank out of a cup made of ice it might be worth indulging the novelty.

London part two: food!

Classic British Fare, Fish & Chips plus a Shandy

Despite stereotypes the British do know how to cook, unless you go to Greggs or Tesco for your meal (sorry greggs and tesco lovers) you will be impressed. Regardless of if you are on a budget or looking to spend big bucks there are plenty of good places to eat in London.

My absolute favorite and probably the most expensive on the list is 'Les Trois Garcons' in Shoreditch. (http://www.loungelover.co.uk/) This place is worth eating in just for the ambiance alone! Last time I ate there my boyfriend sat with a stuffed, bejeweled giraffe above his head! The food is obviously french and never disappoints. It is an a la carte menu (£39.50/ £45.50) which changes regularly so if you are a picky eater it is worth checking the on line menu before you go. It will be said that it is a little bit obnoxious to reach this restaurant as it is not really with in walking distance of a tube stop - I am guessing that most of the patrons can afford taxis- but you can still reach it via public transport and it really really is worth it.

Another expensive yet amazing restaurant is the Chop House (http://www.chophouse-restaurant.co.uk/). This restaurant immediately puts any rumors about bad British cuisine to rest. Once I believe both rook and squirrel were on the seasonal menu (I was not that daring). In the summer you can also sit outside and have fantastic views of the tower bridge. As an insiders tip, the bar has an amazing menu for much less (they often have two courses for £12 deals) and while you are unlikely to find squirrel on the bar menu it will save you a lot of money. As a result of this though it is pretty much impossible to just walk in and get a table on the bar side (but usually easy to do on the restaurant side) so be sure to book in advance!



The last expensive restaurant that I would recommend (or at least would back when I was there) is the Blue Elephant. I hear it is going down hill so I suggest going only if you really enjoy the novelty. It is a Thai restaurant in Fullham that reminds me a bit of the rainforest cafe. There is foliage everywhere as well as a few streams and coy ponds. The food was amazing all times but the last time that I went (hence my caution). The ambiance is really fun and while you can get great Thai food for much less in London (like Kai Thai in Butler's Wharf) it is still worth the trip if you can afford it! (http://www.blueelephant.com/)

For a fancy meal in London without as hefty of a price tag I recommend the restaurant on top of the National Portrait Gallery. It is not cheap but it is not overpriced either. Please note that it is not open every day so check before you go! The view is absolutely amazing as you can see most of London's famous landmarks from the top. The food is also very good and worth the price. If you have seen the movie 'The Closer' this restaurant is in part of the film. This place is by far one of my favorite places to take people visiting the city because the food is good and the view is fantastic! See: http://www.npg.org.uk/about/gallery-spaces/portrait-restaurant.php

While not an amazing restaurant but excellent for a good view of London I would recommend the Pizza Express across from the Globe Theatre. Pizza express has really good value pizza (and you can get it for really cheap by googling for vouchers on line) and while a massive chain, the pizza is good. You can be pretentious and pretend it is beneath you but everyone loves Pizza Express. This one location is particularly good as you can see St Pauls, the Thames, the globe, and more as you dine on your delicious and cheap pizza. If you are in the area definitely give it a go.

Another great British establishment is Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese on fleet street (http://www.pubs.com/main_site/pub_details.php?pub_id=154). It is a Sam Smith's pub (micro brewery based up north) and has woodchips on the floor and a fire burning in the winter. Apparently a pub has been in that location since 1538 and claims loads of famous patrons. The food is not half bad either. Whether you are stopping in for a quick pint or a meal be warned it is really really popular. On a weekday half the city drinks there and it can be impossible just to find a place to stand. Weekends can be crowded as well but are often a better bet. Also there have been many times that it has randomly been closed for no explicable reason so it is worth checking in advance if you really want to go.

London is also famous for the amazing ethnic options available (there is even an all you can eat Ethiopian buffet) but there are two places that have really stood out to me. First for North African I really love both Souk Medina's in Covent Garden. The food is tasty and reasonably priced and the atmosphere is pretty fun as well. If you are going out with a large crowd you really ought to take a look at their group menus. I did a birthday party here once and it was such a steal. For £30 there were unlimited appetizers and mains (really unlimited, they filled it as many times as you wanted). You also get a bottle of wine (or I think four bottles of beer) EACH under this deal as well as dessert and a belly dancer. I really cannot recommend this place enough. http://www.soukrestaurant.co.uk/index.asp

The most infamous place to get ethnic food however is Brick Lane. Here the streets are lined with Indian restaurants with men ready to bargain with you to entice you into their establishment. You can pretty much get first free drink, free poppadoms, and 10% -15% off your bill regardless of where you go. While I do not have one particular restaurant on the Lane that I recommend I would suggest the test that I use, if the restaurant is totally dead it is probably for a reason... find the ones that have a few tables full (although if you are going early even the good ones tend to be empty then). http://www.visitbricklane.org/

Another tip when going out to eat in London is to use top table. (http://www.toptable.com/) They have reviews and you can often book on line and get special deals.

Even if you just pop into a pub for some fish and chips in London you are likely to have a good meal so fear not and embrace London for all of the delicious food, mushy peas and all!

Living it up in London part one

I. Love. London. Love love love it! I would say I could live there forever but I need sunshine. Regardless, I like to think of myself as 'in the know' as where to go. I was there for nearly three years and was obsessed with doing as much as possible while I was there. So in an attempt to ensure that everyone else loves London I am going to share my knowledge. Anyone else with valuable suggestions please feel free to add your comments.

First as for time to go- it will be less crowded if you go in the winter but while it will be less crowded but it will be so much more depressing (think darkness at 4pm). It does not get 'warm' and I use that word loosely until May so if you want to have nice strolls May through September I think is your best time to go.

Now for my spew of knowledge....

First for the ladies, shopping!
-I am American and therefore will always have a love for pretty malls. London did not have any fantastic malls (in my opinion) until recently, Westfields (yes they are all over America). The reason I think it is great is because it has all the cute little UK stores in one undercover location (good for rainy days). This way if you are looking to pick up some clothes or shoes that you cannot get in the USA, you can find them all under one roof. (Although now that Asos.com is in America you can get a lot of it on line!). Take the Central line to Shephards Bush and you cannot miss it.

The other reason that Westfields is a must is simply that Oxford and Regent St (while massive tourist locations) are horrible to actually do any proper shopping on. You are walking on super crowded streets with the stores spread down many many blocks with crappy little stores in between. You are held up by street crossings, bombarded with people passing out fliers, and if it is raining it is even worse. Of course Selfridges is on Oxford St so you will most likely have to brave a bit of crowds regardless!



Oxford Street at Christmas


-For more unique shopping you have many many options in London. Notoriously there is Camden (worth seeing for people watching but unless you are into pleather you wont be buying much). The other big tourist shopping street is Portobello Road. It becomes absolutely slammed by noon so the earlier the better. It requires serious hunting to find a good deal but they are there. Particularly portobello green (if you are coming from nottinghill it is at the other end of the market and under the underpass) has loads of good places to get fascinators or hand made jewelry. Take Central Line to Nottinghill Highgate.

Meanwhile Kingly Court (off Carnaby street which is in turn off Regent St) has loads of kitschy shops as well as some good boutiques. It also has a nice little cafe which serves candy cakes (giant cupcakes with very bright icing). Traffic people (http://www.trafficpeople.co.uk/shop/?gclid=CJ2O5efu5asCFWJn5QodKSUdJQ) is a particularly good store for getting a little something for going out in.

Finally for clothing and accessories there is Spitalfield's market near Liverpool street. Go on a Sunday as the things displayed in the market change daily. Things I have bought at this market include a hand made coat (when I tried one on and thought I might need to go a size up the man actually said 'o no I made a few smalls smaller than the others', proof he made them, a dress made out of men's suit jackets and ties, and a rather cute t-shirt. Other days it is an antique market, art market etc. To get a full schedule go to :http://www.spitalfields.co.uk/

As for food you must go to Borough market (from London Bridge tube station), Thursday is the best day to go (and avoid lunch time to avoid the lunch crowd unless you are also looking for lunch). You are unlikely to buy something (although there is an excellent beer shop) but it is a worth looking around and sampling some of the fares. If you are keen to eat there for a meal it is a great idea, you can get a super cheap and amazing meal in the market itself if you are on a budget or you can go to one of the many restaurants surrounding it (they pretty much all use fresh, local, food). I have eaten at (and loved) fish!, roast, feng sushi, and the oyster bar and not been disappointed. There is also a tapas place at the head of the market (http://www.brindisa.com/), it is legit tapas (has special catalan dishes) but it does not take reservations and is always packed. (It too is amazing but if you want to plan in advance might not be worth it).

That is it for shopping up next will be my second favorite activity - eating.