There are two ways to do a Safari (as far as I am aware) and I have done both. One way is camping out in the parks themselves, the other is staying at lodges inside or near by the camps.
Before deciding to be thrifty and camp out it would be worth while to find out if you are camping in a fenced in area (or if the guides fence in the area themselves). If not you might be like me and wake up to animals trying to get into your tent (more specifically a zebra smacking my head with his mouth). If the area is fenced in, you are less likely to be bothered or feel nervous getting up and walking to the bathroom in the middle of the night (most of us took the approach of peeing immediately outside the tent).
If you stay in a lodge however, you get a real bed, often an attached bathroom, and a little bit more shelter from the animals. I did this while in Zambia on the cheap and it was fantastic (Marula lodge). You still see animals from your room (hippo munching outside your window) and have elephants walking through the property etc.
Timing is the other key factor in deciding to do a safari. In places like the valley in Zambia, you want to go in the dry season when the animals cannot hide behind all of the various trees and plants in full bloom. Meanwhile the Serengeti is a vast open range so much easier to see animals in the rainy season. The best thing to do would be to consult a company about the best time to go since each area will have a different climate and have different times for best viewing.
Either way you will have a fantastic time!
Friday, April 1, 2011
Smart choices while traveling
I have never met a single person I didn't like while traveling through Africa (that is a lie, I hated one guy but he was British so it does not count). I have found that unlike those of us in the west who are very inward focused, people in Africa will give you help when you need it and genuinely look out for you (a guy tried to steal this kids phone in Moshi and the crowd beat the crap out of the thief).
All that being said, Africans are poor and are looking for ways to feed themselves and their families. It is unlikely that you are going to be straight up robbed in a harmful way but if you are not being smart people will take opportunities (just like they do everywhere else, had things stolen in New York and London but never Africa). The guy who nearly had his phone taken was walking down the street and texting not paying any attention what so ever to what he was doing, making himself an easy target. If you count a wad of cash in public and haphazardly stuff it in your wallet in your back pocket and meander into a crowd, you might find it missing. Put your bag full of valuable things to sell on the back of your chair and it might not be there when you turn around (don't do this anywhere this is how I lost everything at a pub in London). In short if you are aware of your surroundings in Africa just like in any big city, you will be fine.
Also don't be crass and show off your wealth. I did not take my very lovely Michale Kors watch with me because one it is white and it would not come back as such but two because I had a perfectly good $10 target watch I could take instead. Africans have a tendency to think because you are white you are as rich as Bill Gates so a lot of people might ask you for money (don't take offense). So if you make yourself super flashy you are going to be a bigger target (kind of true everywhere).
Something else I do is take a crap phone. I have a lovely little hot pink phone that is unlocked. When I get to the airport I just buy a local sim and pop money on it. So much easier than dealing with roaming and so much cheaper too.
Other handy things to pack include face wipes (not always able to wash your face in a sink), hand sanitizer (this saved me and Claire in ghana when we had no water with which to wash our hands), for those roughing it toilet paper is soooooo helpful. Also re-hydration and tummy meds for when the local food does not agree with you 100%.
When I was reading hotel ratings on trip adviser before going to Zanzibar I wanted to tell all the negative reviewers one thing:This is Africa. Your internet is going to be slower, you wont always be able to drink out of the sink, sometimes you might encounter a long drop without any toilet paper (or running water for hand washing). That does not make the experience any less amazing what so ever. As long as you go in with the attitude that it is Africa and that it will be different, you will complain less. That being said where we stayed in Zanzibar was pretty much five star every way it could be, amazing staff, AC, TV, drinkable tap water (at least for me), business lounge spa. I am just saying don't let the idea of a long drop keep you from going on one of the most amazing trips you could ever hope to take.
All that being said, Africans are poor and are looking for ways to feed themselves and their families. It is unlikely that you are going to be straight up robbed in a harmful way but if you are not being smart people will take opportunities (just like they do everywhere else, had things stolen in New York and London but never Africa). The guy who nearly had his phone taken was walking down the street and texting not paying any attention what so ever to what he was doing, making himself an easy target. If you count a wad of cash in public and haphazardly stuff it in your wallet in your back pocket and meander into a crowd, you might find it missing. Put your bag full of valuable things to sell on the back of your chair and it might not be there when you turn around (don't do this anywhere this is how I lost everything at a pub in London). In short if you are aware of your surroundings in Africa just like in any big city, you will be fine.
Also don't be crass and show off your wealth. I did not take my very lovely Michale Kors watch with me because one it is white and it would not come back as such but two because I had a perfectly good $10 target watch I could take instead. Africans have a tendency to think because you are white you are as rich as Bill Gates so a lot of people might ask you for money (don't take offense). So if you make yourself super flashy you are going to be a bigger target (kind of true everywhere).
Something else I do is take a crap phone. I have a lovely little hot pink phone that is unlocked. When I get to the airport I just buy a local sim and pop money on it. So much easier than dealing with roaming and so much cheaper too.
Other handy things to pack include face wipes (not always able to wash your face in a sink), hand sanitizer (this saved me and Claire in ghana when we had no water with which to wash our hands), for those roughing it toilet paper is soooooo helpful. Also re-hydration and tummy meds for when the local food does not agree with you 100%.
When I was reading hotel ratings on trip adviser before going to Zanzibar I wanted to tell all the negative reviewers one thing:This is Africa. Your internet is going to be slower, you wont always be able to drink out of the sink, sometimes you might encounter a long drop without any toilet paper (or running water for hand washing). That does not make the experience any less amazing what so ever. As long as you go in with the attitude that it is Africa and that it will be different, you will complain less. That being said where we stayed in Zanzibar was pretty much five star every way it could be, amazing staff, AC, TV, drinkable tap water (at least for me), business lounge spa. I am just saying don't let the idea of a long drop keep you from going on one of the most amazing trips you could ever hope to take.
Preparing for your African adventure.
One of the downsides to going to Africa is the preparation- while a trip to the UK usually just involves purchasing a ticket and hopping of the plane that is not the case for Africa. That being said if you are well organized it really is easy to go through the extra steps.
Getting there part one: The visa:
Countries have a fun way of getting back at each other for treatment of citizens and that is the visa process, since African visitors are forced to apply for travel visas to come to America the same is required of Americans going there. The price of the visa usually correlates so that both countries are charging the same amount (between $30 and $100). Luckily for US citizens however, you are much more likely to get a visa going there then any African is coming here (sorry Claire!). While some countries allow you to purchase a visa at the airport others require you to have it before leaving so it is worth checking with the country's embassy first. Also if you are like me and have an unforeseen night in Nairobi because you missed your connecting flight, there are often transit visas that are cheaper and easily granted if you are only in country for 24 or 48 hours. Even if you can get your visa upon arrival I HIGHLY recommend getting it in advance anyway. For one it is cheaper, two in Africa things move pole pole (slowly) so you can end up spending a lot longer in the immigration line then you would if you already had it (in Zambia they even let me through the diplomatic line they were so pleased that I already had mine). Also know that when applying for your visa they usually will want to know where you are going to stay as well as proof that you are leaving the country so you need to book your flight and have your hotel confirmation before the application.
Vaccinations: Thanks to all the super fantastic bugs that are in Africa (one time I found a neon-orange furry thing it was pretty cool). It is in some cases recommended and in others required that you have vaccinations. Yellow fever is the big one: countries such as Ghana, Kenya, Tanzania and others will not let you in the country if you do not have proof of your yellow fever vaccination (only the Kilimanjaro airport ever checked me). While I have not confirmed this, my friend swears a Kenyan airline flight from Dubai to South Africa (which does not require the yellow fever vaccination) told the Nairobi stop over group that they would need to have it. So if you are even stopping over in one that requires a vaccination I advise that you get it. The shot is a good investment anyway because they are good for ten years and after your first trip to Africa you are going to want to go back pretty much immediately.
The other absolute necessity would be malaria tablets, I personally have taken doxy both times (makes you have fun rashes in the sun and does a number on your tummy). I have not found it too difficult to take but in this case talk to your physician about what is right for you. If taking the malaria tablet gives you horrible reactions and ruins your holiday I have known people to skip taking them (NOT a doctor don't take my word for it). With a lot of bug spray and good use of your mosquito net you can combat most chances for a bite anyway. However the bugs are way worse in the rainy season so please be aware of the time you are going and the risks involved. George Clooney has had malaria a few times and he has not found it fun. Like I said, I know people who have gone without and been fine but it is not recommended.
Aside from these two necessities the rest is up to you and you ought to consider the kind of situation you will be in when determining what other shots to get. I got Hep B and Hep A because after two shots you are good for ten years and it is worth the investment. I also got the meningitis vaccine when I knew that Northern Ghana had had an outbreak and that I would be working with children. I have never had the rabbis shots because the hurt the most and I really dont plan on playing with any stray dogs. Another aside about the rabbis shot- without a shot you have 24 hours to find a doctor, with one of the five shots you have 48 hours to get the next one. There are five shots in total I believe.
Transportation
It never hurts to have your big transport requests arranged for before you leave (to and from airport & hotel). There are not fancy official cab stands at African airports the way there are at JFK so it is kind of just a mad house of people hoping to get you to be your customer. While your physical safety is unlikely to be threatened (well maybe Nairobi also known as Nai-robbery). Instead what they are likely to do is charge you about ten times the amount of the actual fare for your riding. Saying that though they tried to rip us off all the time in Ghana and charge us a whole 2 cidis for a twenty minute ride (think $2) instead of the actual 90 cents it costs. So while you will be ripped off if you dont know the cost of the fair, it is nothing like what NY cabbies can do to your wallet. Another way to prepare before you go is simply ask the hotel how much a cab ride should cost (you always agree on the fare before getting into the cab). Once you tell a cabbie you know how much the ride costs and wont go for anything other than X they will usually just laugh it off and take you for that amount.
Getting there part one: The visa:
Countries have a fun way of getting back at each other for treatment of citizens and that is the visa process, since African visitors are forced to apply for travel visas to come to America the same is required of Americans going there. The price of the visa usually correlates so that both countries are charging the same amount (between $30 and $100). Luckily for US citizens however, you are much more likely to get a visa going there then any African is coming here (sorry Claire!). While some countries allow you to purchase a visa at the airport others require you to have it before leaving so it is worth checking with the country's embassy first. Also if you are like me and have an unforeseen night in Nairobi because you missed your connecting flight, there are often transit visas that are cheaper and easily granted if you are only in country for 24 or 48 hours. Even if you can get your visa upon arrival I HIGHLY recommend getting it in advance anyway. For one it is cheaper, two in Africa things move pole pole (slowly) so you can end up spending a lot longer in the immigration line then you would if you already had it (in Zambia they even let me through the diplomatic line they were so pleased that I already had mine). Also know that when applying for your visa they usually will want to know where you are going to stay as well as proof that you are leaving the country so you need to book your flight and have your hotel confirmation before the application.
Vaccinations: Thanks to all the super fantastic bugs that are in Africa (one time I found a neon-orange furry thing it was pretty cool). It is in some cases recommended and in others required that you have vaccinations. Yellow fever is the big one: countries such as Ghana, Kenya, Tanzania and others will not let you in the country if you do not have proof of your yellow fever vaccination (only the Kilimanjaro airport ever checked me). While I have not confirmed this, my friend swears a Kenyan airline flight from Dubai to South Africa (which does not require the yellow fever vaccination) told the Nairobi stop over group that they would need to have it. So if you are even stopping over in one that requires a vaccination I advise that you get it. The shot is a good investment anyway because they are good for ten years and after your first trip to Africa you are going to want to go back pretty much immediately.
The other absolute necessity would be malaria tablets, I personally have taken doxy both times (makes you have fun rashes in the sun and does a number on your tummy). I have not found it too difficult to take but in this case talk to your physician about what is right for you. If taking the malaria tablet gives you horrible reactions and ruins your holiday I have known people to skip taking them (NOT a doctor don't take my word for it). With a lot of bug spray and good use of your mosquito net you can combat most chances for a bite anyway. However the bugs are way worse in the rainy season so please be aware of the time you are going and the risks involved. George Clooney has had malaria a few times and he has not found it fun. Like I said, I know people who have gone without and been fine but it is not recommended.
Aside from these two necessities the rest is up to you and you ought to consider the kind of situation you will be in when determining what other shots to get. I got Hep B and Hep A because after two shots you are good for ten years and it is worth the investment. I also got the meningitis vaccine when I knew that Northern Ghana had had an outbreak and that I would be working with children. I have never had the rabbis shots because the hurt the most and I really dont plan on playing with any stray dogs. Another aside about the rabbis shot- without a shot you have 24 hours to find a doctor, with one of the five shots you have 48 hours to get the next one. There are five shots in total I believe.
Transportation
It never hurts to have your big transport requests arranged for before you leave (to and from airport & hotel). There are not fancy official cab stands at African airports the way there are at JFK so it is kind of just a mad house of people hoping to get you to be your customer. While your physical safety is unlikely to be threatened (well maybe Nairobi also known as Nai-robbery). Instead what they are likely to do is charge you about ten times the amount of the actual fare for your riding. Saying that though they tried to rip us off all the time in Ghana and charge us a whole 2 cidis for a twenty minute ride (think $2) instead of the actual 90 cents it costs. So while you will be ripped off if you dont know the cost of the fair, it is nothing like what NY cabbies can do to your wallet. Another way to prepare before you go is simply ask the hotel how much a cab ride should cost (you always agree on the fare before getting into the cab). Once you tell a cabbie you know how much the ride costs and wont go for anything other than X they will usually just laugh it off and take you for that amount.
Tips for traveling in Africa
Jambo!
In this post I will pretend that I have the audacity to relay any useful information on Africa. As a non-African citizen I will never feel that I have any authority to say what is best for traveling in Africa or for helping Africa, I can only hope to learn from my own personal experiences (both traveling and through my work). Now that the disclaimer is out of the way....
I am going to do this post in several sections so that those of you looking for very specific advice wont have to sort through all of my ramblings to get it. This section will be on selecting a travel destination- other sections will be, preparing for your trip, smart choices while traveling, and how to have a successful safari (I've been on two so I feel fairly competent to provide advice on the matter!
Selecting a destination:
Traveling to Africa can be a very daunting idea for those who either do not study it constantly (myself) or have simply not been before. My dad for example gets all of his information from the news paper and what does he see- rape, kidnapping, armed rebel groups. What most people fail to remember is that Africa is huge, it is an entire continent and while protests in North Africa and the Middle East have to an extent shown a link between the countries it is still possible to go without bumping into a rebel fraction. Furthermore you can go pretty much anywhere and come back alive- some places just require more luck than others. The DRC is one of the most volatile countries in the world yet a few friends of mine have gone for work and safely returned. The best thing to do however is read State Department travel warnings and country profiles to decide exactly how much you want to be concerned for your safety while abroad. But remember even America has places that are not recommended to visit (I would not be safe in certain parts of DC after dark that is for sure). But the State Department is your best bet: http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/tw/tw_1764.html
For those who are really interested in getting to Africa (and I am speaking of sub-Saharan Africa) there are several countries that are so tourist oriented that I would recommend them as good introductory trips:
Ghana in west Africa is great for first time visitors, everyone speaks English (taught in school) and the country is one of Africa's oldest democracies. Accra the capital has beaches, an art market, and famed Oxford Street where it is easy to get western comforts like pizza or ice cream. Loads of cheap beach resorts dot the coast and for those with an altruistic side it is very easy to do a week of volun-tourism in Ghana for real local flavor. While there be sure to try Fufu with stew or Banku two popular Ghanaian dishes. Plantains and goat meat are other local favorites. The locals are super friendly and travel is cheap around the country especially if you take a tro-tro (really old mini van fit to seat about 20). Everyone there will call you an 'Obroni' but take no offense (means foreigner or white person) just smile and say Medasi (thank you in Twi).
The whole of East Africa is pretty much geared towards family friendly tourism although the flight is slightly longer. Uganda is great for gorilla trekking and while the Ugandan government might not have the best track record in human rights, the big brother government allows for a very safe and beautiful capital city. Meanwhile Kenya and Tanzania are both prime destinations for Safaris and luxury beach holidays. Kenya is currently on the State Department do not travel list, the recent ICC summons have caused significant political tension in the country. Unfortunately the Rift Valley (where a large portion of the violence occurred) is a popular Safari destination. My best advice would be to just be aware of the situation and to insure your trip. At the moment things appear to be calm but as my Kenyan friends say, 'we check the political forecast the way others check the weather before deciding to go into town'. Tanzania is another great introductory country to travel to with plenty of Safari options, the AMAZING island of Zanzibar, and Mt Kilimanjaro for the particularly adventurous. While Swahili is the national language here (Ugandans and Kenyans speak Swahili but do official business in English) most Tanzanians involved in the tourist industry speak English just fine and it is taught in schools.
Mt Kilimanjaro
Other great places to go to include Zambia which not only has excellent Safari choices of its own (I recommend my friend's lodge: http://marulalodgezambia.com/) but also has the impressive Victoria Falls as well. Once again it is very easy to get by in English and if in the capital Lusaka you can even go to a giant shopping mall (after spending a month in Moshi Tanzania this was probably more impressive to me than those coming directly from America).
While I have not personally been, I have heard amazing things about Namibia, another safe and tourist friendly country. While here be sure to try sand surfing! Another popular tourist destination would be Botswana who recently received free tourist adverts with the First Lady's visit.
Finally another great 'introduction' to Africa would be a trip to the rainbow nation, South Africa here you can travel through wine vineyards, be on the look out for sharks, hike up tabletop mountain, and much more. Be sure to have biltong while there!
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